Thursday, 29 September 2016

Richardt & Mejer Signature Watch Review

Richard & Mejer Signature

Richardt & Mejer Signature

Over the past few months I have had the opportunity to review quite a few minimalist style watches. The one thing that continually shined through were very simple designs and outside of a few gimmicks whether a splash of color or some sort of aesthetic modification to dial print, in the end all have been simple round case watches. Now please don’t get me wrong as that does not mean I found any of them to be less than very solid timepieces for the most part. However, along came Richardt & Mejer with another spin on a minimalist watch design that even the most devote Bauhaus style aficionados can appreciate. Besides those that are strictly bound to minimalist watch designs, how many of you reading desire something that just flat out looks different? I know I do so keep on reading and check out the Signature Watch from Richardt & Mejer.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

Richardt & Mejer Signature Specifications:

High Grade 316L Stainless Steel

38mm diameter

47mm lug to lug

20mm lug width

Sapphire Crystal

5 ATM

Ronda Powertech 515 Quartz Movement

Calfskin Leather Strap w/ buckle

Price $336.17 tax excl.

 

The Signature Watch comes in several different variations but in this review I will focus on the “Gun” which retails for $336.17 tax excluded outside of Europe. Gun refers to the gunmetal color of the dial for those of you that may not have known where that was headed. If you would like to take a closer look at Richardt & Mejer before reading onward visit their website at: http://www.richardtmejer.dk/.

The very first aspect of the Signature Watch that will catch any eye is the very unusual almost blockish style case design. I know when I first saw the Signature my inclination was that there is no way that would look good on my wrist and that it has to be extremely uncomfortable. I also thought that it just looked like someone stamped out a case out of a block of steel and that it was a bit ugly. Guess what? I shouldn’t jump to conclusions ever and have to admit my first impressions prior to receiving the watch were quite simply wrong.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

The case design even though it appears different from many common minimalist watch designs still fits the mold as it actually just consists of simple curves and angles. The watch isn’t quite as blockish as I had originally perceived either. Yes, I was wrong about the level of comfort as well. The case and case back are both flat so the watch sits very comfortably and evenly across the wrist. I have to compliment Richardt & Mejer on the excellent quality control as the case has an extremely fine brushed finish that isn’t always present on watches in this price range. The 9mm thin case will also slide nicely under a dress shirt cuff. In case anyone is wondering the crown is push/pull which is typical for this style of watch and is unremarkable so I really do not have much to say other than it functions as it should and is quite firm.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

Okay, so the case is a really interesting take on a Bauhaus style/Minimalist style design as well as being well constructed so Richardt & Mejer had to take some shortcuts elsewhere to keep Signature Watch at a reasonable price, right? Wrong. Sitting atop the Signature Watch is a flat sapphire crystal that is 1.8mm in overall thickness. Sapphire isn’t always a guarantee on a watch at this price. Everyone that has read my reviews over the years also knows that I have to mention an aspect that could be improved upon and the Signature Watch isn’t going to get away unscathed. Even though the watch comes with a sapphire crystal it doesn’t appear to have an anti-reflective coating on the underside of the crystal. I noticed a bit a difficulty at times reading the watch in the sunlight and also had to work extremely hard with lighting to get some decent photographs for the review. I doubt the addition of an AR coating would have jumped the price significantly so hopefully the company will consider this improvement for future releases.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

Beneath the crystal is a gorgeous sunray gunmetal colored dial. If gunmetal isn’t too you liking check out the other dial color options on the company’s website. I would like to applaud Richardt & Mejer for using applied markers for an added level of detail, as well as, providing a touch of lume on the primary markers and the handset. The level of lume isn’t going to set the world on fire but is more than adequate for the style of watch.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

I’m not a huge fan of quartz movements as many of you may know. I prefer a nice Miyota 9015 or some version of a nice Swiss automatic for the most part. Now that doesn’t mean I don’t like quartz movements altogether but a quartz movement needs to be what I consider quality or at least solid or I won’t own it. The Seiko VK Mecha-quartz movements are super and I also like Ronda for the most part. The Ronda Powertech 515 is a good example of solid quartz movement at least in my humble opinion. The 515 is a simple 3 hand movement but is more than adequate for Signature Watch and should be reliable for a long time. Would I like to see the Signature Watch house an automatic movement? Definitely! If it would fit or if the case could be designed to allow for the Miyota 9015, the Signature Watch would be a Grand Slam in my opinion but the upgrade in movement would also mean an increase in overall price most likely.

Richardt & Mejer Signature

Finishing off the Signature Watch is a very nice calfskin leather strap. There are two color choices that I am aware of which are black or tan. Richardt & Mejer sent a sample of each color strap and I have to admit I am quite partial to the tan as it adds a little contrast against the gunmetal dial, however, the black looks nice too and is a bit dressier. The strap quality was surprisingly superb. The stock pictures made the strap appear a bit plain but in hand they are very nice overall. The strap is finished off perfectly with a solid square stainless steel buckle. The buckle is fairly heavy duty compared to most buckles found on thinner straps.

7 3/4 inch wrist for referenceRichardt & Mejer Signature

In closing, is the Signature Watch for me? Probably not for me personally as I have a strong affection for aviator and dive style watch primarily. However, I have a great appreciation for the design of this watch. Do I think consumers will be dissatisfied with the Signature Watch? Not one bit unless you just flat out will not own a quartz watch or dislike minimalist style watches in general. If something different and a simple design is appealing, the Signature Watch from Richardt & Mejer is going to be right up your alley. Besides the unique spin on a classic design, you will be receiving a watch with some quality features from the sapphire crystal, applied markers, Swiss quartz movement down to the calfskin strap. Overall, the Signature Watch is a refreshing take on the minimalist concept and a solid overall timepiece in its price range.

Thank you for reading.

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Wednesday, 28 September 2016

Magrette Regattare 11 | Watch Review

Magrette Regattare 11

Magrette Regattare

With similar specifications to the Waterman, the Magrette Regattare 11 is not a huge change for the lineup of the New Zealand brand, though it does have a different look, and a different appeal. The Waterman was more vintage inspired with its dial and hands, and especially the protruding sapphire crystal.  The Regattare 11 is an updated version of their 2011 model, coming in now at 42mm and both a leather and Tropic style rubber strap.

Magrette Regattare 11 Specifications:

  • MODEL: REGATTARE 11
  • CASE FINISH: BRUSHED SIDES, BEZEL AND BACK WITH A POLISH                 FINISH ON THE TOP OF CASE AND BLACK PVD CASE.
  • MOVEMENT: 9015 MIYOTA WITH HACKING SECONDS
  • CASE DIAMETER: 42MM EXCLUDING THE CROWN
  • LUG WIDTH: 22MM
  • LUG LENGTH: 51.5MM
  • CASE THICKNESS: 13MM
  • CASE FINISH: 316L STAINLESS STEEL
  • CROWN: SCREW DOWN.
  • CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE (DOUBLE DOMED), AR COATING.
  • WATER-RESISTANCE: 200M/20ATM WATER RESISTANCE
  • STRAP: 1X LEATHER STRAP, REMBORDE EDGE, LORICA LINING

PRICE $585 USD

http://www.magrette.com/the-timepieces-regattare-11.php

Magrette Regattare 11

For me, the Regattare 11 is a more pleasing watch, both in looks and readability. My biggest issue with the Waterman was the crystal. Had it been flat as this is, my stance might be different. Following the trend of smaller cased watches, the 42mm Regattare 11 is a sweet spot for many, and the dual crown allows you to have diving functionality with a larger dial opening.

When it comes to timing though, there is a bit of an issue, not only with the dive bezel but also with the regular timekeeping. As you can see, there are no hash marks for the minute/seconds, so having the Regattare 11 be accurate to the second is a little difficult, just as timing with the bezel will be, unless you are doing increments of 5. This is not the first time Magrette has left off this important function, and while I know many of us do not actually dive, the fact that you can not actually set it to the second is a little bothersome.

Magrette Regattare 11

Both crowns do screw down to help with the 200 meters of water resistance and yet we have another exhibition or see through case back in play. As I stated in the Waterman review, I miss the days of solid case backs with the stamped or engraved logos. Maybe it is just me, but seems many brands are doing glass backs on mundane looking movements.

The Miyota 9015 is a fantastic movement that has become of cornerstone for many microbrands. I have no issues with it, and have not personally encountered any problems, be it this Regattare 11 model or other brands, with the exception of a noisy rotor, which seems to be the calling card of this Miyota Series.

Magrette Regattare 11

Sandwich dials were used again on the Regattare 11, and I have to say, Magrette does a hell of a job with the dial cutouts. They are clean and precise and give a great depth to the dial. Sandwich dials are not personally my favorite, though I do like them a lot, applied markers are at the top of the list for me, with sandwich coming in second, and printed dead last. As a matter of fact, I wish printed markers did not exist at all, unless used on watches $100 and under.  Not only are the cutouts precise, but the lume compound applied is thick and cleanly applied, for some long lasting lume, which you can see a few sections below.

Magrette Regattare 11

In the travel case was the Tropic style rubber strap and also a black leather with red stitching and red Lorica backing, which gives it some water resistance. Both the leather and rubber look good, the rubber seems to be a little less stiff than my first example and the leather is also a touch longer. Each one has the Magrette CNC logo buckle as well.

Magrette Regattare 11

The lume is spectacular, no other word for it. Magrette might not be on the top of everybody’s mind when it comes to strong lume, but they should be. They have showed with each release for the past few years that lume is important to them, and they did not disappoint on the Regattare 11 at all. The sandwich markers and hands glow equally bright and even and the C3 Superluminova will continue to glow for a few hours.

Magrette Regattare 11

I love this watch on the wrist, where it resides most times, unless I am taking photos. The cushion case shape has always been a favorite of mine, and at 42mm, it is much more wearable for me these days. I still get a chuckle at times, how with anything in life really, we adapt and change our preferences. Years ago, it was 48mm or larger, nowadays I rarely go beyond 44mm, at least not with something that I want to wear for a few days in a row. The Magrette Regattare 2011 is comfortable on either of the included straps and of course if you have a leather, canvas, or rubber of your own, it will be equally at home on this dual crown diver.

Magrette Regattare 11

I have never shied away from the fact that I am a big fan of Magrette Watches. The styles and case shapes appeal to me, and the owner of the company comes across as passionate and willing to go the extra mile for his customers. Magrette is not the cheapest microbrand, nor the most expensive.  They have also stayed in business while many brands have come and gone through the years, so that tells you they are doing something right. The watches are well made, and even though they have done some questionable things when it comes to dial details over the years, the Magrette Regattare 2011 is another model I would recommended without hesitation, especially if you are looking for a solidly built watch from a brand that stands behind their product.

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