Tuesday 30 January 2018

Handmade Ferdi and 3Five6 Watches Launch on Kickstarter

Handmade Ferdi and 3Five6 Watches Launch on Kickstarter

Handmade Ferdi and 3Five6 Watches Launch on Kickstarter

The world of motor racing has long been a ripe source of influence for watchmakers, and some all-time classic timepieces have been inspired by racing. Now there is a new name on the block, blending heritage, quality, and exclusivity into an enviable package. Renowned designer Alessandro Salvatore has merged his love of race cars with cutting edge handmade crafting to create the Ferdi and 3Five6 watches.

This new collection takes direct inspiration from Ferdinand Porsche and his legendary Porsche 356 race car. Salvatore’s new timepieces are now available through a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign, bringing affordable handmade quality to customers.

Salvatore has opened a new Kickstarter campaign for the Ferdi and 3Five6 watches. You can check out the details right here.

The 43mm watches are 12mm thick and feature an Italian made natural vegetable tanned leather strap, available in various colours. Both Chronograph timepieces, the Ferdi comes with 2 eyes, a centre stop second, 30-minute counter, Tachymeter, Date, and small second configuration. The 3Five6 features the same elements, but is a 3-eye chronograph that also has a 12-hour counter.

Salvatore is particularly proud of the crafting of the case for the Ferdi and 3Five6. So much so, he describes the manufacturing as a masterpiece. Using tapered and arched lugs, the case fits impeccably to deliver a high-quality finish. The top and bottom of the case are clean polished, while the 1mm middle boasts a horizontally brushed finish. A beautifully engraved stainless steel case back highlights the “Swiss Made” excellence of the watches.

Of course, the crown is one of the most important parts of a watch. To ensure longevity and quality, the Ferdi and 3Five6 feature elegantly machined crowns embossed with the watch logo. Continuing the high level of design, Alessandro Salvatore used museum grade sapphire to deliver a strong and bomb-proof crystal display with an anti-reflection coating.

In the company’s Kickstarter campaign, the team discusses how the dial was painstakingly constructed to deliver the highest aesthetic appeal and functionality.

“The dials on both models are multi-layered in applied elements and the dial on Ferdi is a basket weave Carbon Fiber in matt black. The main hands are also matt with a cleaver black on the base, giving them the appearance that the tips are floating. Super-LumiNova is used on the hands and hour markers including the digits and the chronograph minute hand on Ferdi.”

The Ferdi sports Ronda 5021.D movement, while the 5030.D (10/13 Jewel Swiss quartz movement) for the 3Five6.

Handmade Ferdi and 3Five6 Watches Launch on Kickstarter

Quality and Affordable

Alessandro Salvatore also adopted a unique approach to the watch hands. Specifically, the hands do not move slowly around the dial, but instead move in steps. Interestingly, this means when the seconds hand reaches 60, the minute hand literally steps to the next minute. Additionally, when the minute hand reaches 30, the hour hand on the sub dial will step to the next half-hour mark.

This is far more than a technical gimmick because it allows the Ferdi and 3Five6 to be easier to read and to be more mechanically efficient.

Both the Ferdi and 3Five6 are high quality whilst managing to look excellent to boot. They can also be roughed up a bit and get 100m water resistance rating, so taking them for a plunge should be no problem.

So, the reason to wax lyrical about these watches is because they are the highest quality, but are also very affordable. At AUD $575, or US $457 / €374 / £333 these beauties are more watch than they are money. These are handcrafted timepieces made from high-end materials and will be on offer for 48% off RRP when bought through Kickstarter.

 

 

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Elliot Brown Broadstone | Hands on Watch Review

Elliot Brown Broadstone

Elliot Brown Broadstone

A lot of companies claim they make tough, hard use watches. Whether it be dive watches, field watches, you name it. Most of those companies do not back up their claims though; they do not even attempt to. Elliot Brown does. The Elliot Brown Broadstone is not only been worn by the skippers of the Clipper Round the World Race this year, they have also bolted one to the bowsprit of one of the boats, as you can see in the picture below, which has gone from the UK, to South America, South Africa and Tasmania, and is still working. That is all very impressive. The Broadstone is ISO compliant for both shock and water resistance, has a GMT hand, (UTC branding in this case) bolted down case back, sapphire crystals and much more. This thing can take a beating. While I can sit here and look up all about yacht racing and such and attempt to know what I am talking about; I won’t insult you. I know absolutely nothing about. So it is great that it is being used for those races and all, but I will review it from the watch enthusiasts perspective, because that is what I am. Lets get into the good, bad and ugly of the Elliot Brown Broadstone.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

Elliot Brown Broadstone Spefications:

  • 9H-3H – 43mm excluding crowns
  • 12H-6H – 52mm max to tip of case shoulders
  • Maximum thickness – 12mm
  • Strap width – 22mm
  • Swiss Made Ronda Caliber 505.24H quartz movement with custom date printing at 4.30
  • 3 year battery life
  • Steel & elastomer damped shock-absorbing movement holder
  • Water-resistant to ISO2281 and individually tested to 20ATM/200M
  • Shock-resistant to ISO1413
  • Solid marine-grade 316L stainless steel case
  • Anti-reflective 2.5mm sapphire crystal
  • Triple sealed 6mm knurled crowns; screw-down lower crown
  • Bolted down deep acid etched caseback with oversize seals, Clipper Race logo, and serial numbering
  • Internal rotating timer bezel with SuperLuminova marker
  • SuperLuminova coated hands that glow blue
  • Red/green port/starboard hour markers
  • Screw-in single-sided steel strap bars with screwdriver included for easy strap changes
  • Fitted Elliot Brown black rubber strap with solid stainless wide-tongue buckle
  • Additional black cotton duck strap with unique contrasting red stitching and deployant buckle

Price: $699.99 USD

https://www.elliotbrownwatches.com/broadstone/505-001-clipper-race-utc

Elliot Brown Broadstone

If you follow us here at Watchreport or are familiar with Elliot Brown Watches in general, you might be saying to yourself that the Broadstone looks a lot like their Canford Model. Well, it does, but it is not exactly the same. It is actually a new case that has a lower profile sapphire crystal, inset crowns to minimize the chance of getting caught on something, and the lower crown is screw down that is still water resistant if left unscrewed, due to having triple seals.  A lot of these changes are due to the direct feedback of the skippers on 2016’s race that all wore Canfords. Elliot Brown took that feedback and used it to create the Broadstone. Most of us are probably not going to be yacht racing any time soon, but I think these changes benefit the regular wearer as well.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

As I am never one to shy away from what I don’t like or what aggravates me, the first thing I will say about the Elliot Brown Broadstone is that I do not like the polished applied numerals. Now,I am the first one to admit, maybe it is just my photography or lighting, but in almost every photo, these numerals appear to be gold instead of silver. The use of brushed numerals or applied and inset with BGW9 superluminova would be preferred  by me. With that said, overall, I do like the dial, the circular pattern is nice to look at, I could personally do without the date though. I have no idea what red/green port/starboard indexes are used for, but they are there. Of course, the extra hand with the arrow is the GMT (UTC) hand and can be used in conjunction with the etched 24 hour markings on the bezel.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

When you spin the Elliot Brown Broadstone around, you can see this case is really like no other out on the market. Elliot Brown does not do homages and while many watches can look similar in some aspects or have familiar design cues, I have never seen a case like this anywhere else. What I enjoy the most is while it is different, it is not a crazy, out there type of case. It is conventional, yet modern, and it has that rugged appearance that goes along with what Elliot Brown is all about. Not only does the Broadstone have those lower profile crowns, but it also uses heavy duty, thick torx screw bars to hold the straps in. I am telling you right now, as long as you do not strip the screw, which would be hard to do in my opinion, the strap is not coming off the watch accidentally. EVER. Okay, maybe not ever, but it would be a rare occurrence. Don’t worry, EB includes the torx tool, so you do not have to run to the hardware store immediately. It is a pretty nice tool as well, it doesn’t look like something that costs 4 cents to make and 10 cents to buy wholesale from China, that many brands include with the watches.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

Are you OCD? Do misaligned case backs drive you crazy? I will say I am not OCD at all, but this is detail, and in reality a small one, that most brands overlook. Elliot Brown bolts their case backs one and one of the advantages to doing that is the case back graphics are always vertical. While this detail may or may not set your pants on fire, I do like the way it looks, even if it is missing the cross logo EB usually uses. The graphics in this case are acid etched, so they should look the same 10 years down the road as the day you bought it.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

Two straps are included, a black canvas with leather backing and dual deployant clasp and Elliot Browns fitted rubber. I’ll be honest, I never even mounted the canvas to the Broadstone. I love this rubber strap. I do not know if it is my all time favorite, I think that still goes to the Scurfa Diver One, but the way this attaches to the case, the thickness and comfort all add to that rugged, get out there and do anything motto of the Elliot Brown brand. This is not a wimpy rubber strap and I doubt it is going to wear down or snap on your wrist, whether you are out on the ocean doing yacht races or at your desk wishing you were anywhere else while working.

Elliot Brown Broadstone

7 1/2 inch wrist for reference

Elliot Brown Broadstone

You know what I have not talked about at all yet? The price. How could I have waited to the conclusion of this review to mention it? Well, in fairness, its also listing in the specifications above. If you missed that though and wonder why I did not bring it up until now, it is because I think this is one of those watches that will get a bad rap from the value microbrand watch nuts. I do not mean to say that negatively either. I have been THAT watch nut from time to time myself. The issue is that the Elliot Brown Broadstone does not have an automatic movement, a bracelet, a lumed bezel, lumed crowns, a dragon on the case back, 4 straps and a leather travel case for $400. It does however include many things, especially from an engineering and construction standpoint that make it a real hard use watch, one that you can really go swimming with, yachting, boating, hiking, you name it. Yes, you can probably do all that with a G-Shock as well, actually I know you can. But if you are like me, G-Shocks just don’t do it for you. If you do not need a real hard use watch, that is fine. This watch is probably not for you. Hell I do not need a hard use watch either, but it is good to know that this thing is built to take it, while also being good looking and comfortable. So yes, this is that nasty quartz for $700…but it really is worth it.

Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone Elliot Brown Broadstone

 

 

 

 

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Saturday 27 January 2018

Zelos Abyss II | Hands on Watch Review

Zelos Abyss II

Zelos Abyss II

Even though the bronze fad is over (sarcasm), the Zelos Abyss II is one of many latest from the brainchild of Elshan Tang. There are a few differences from the first version, but overall it retains its look. Different chapter ring, the dual crowns are now bronze and not PVD and possibly the biggest change, the movement. The Abyss II houses the Sellita SW200 Swiss Movement instead of the Miyota 9015 from the previous version. There is also a single crown version with a turbine sub-dial, but I will be concentrating on the dual crown version, as that is the one I have in hand. What I can say right out of the gate is there are a few microbrands that not only keep improving with every release, but are really putting out a grade A product consistently. Zelos is one of those brands.

Zelos Abyss II

Zelos Abyss II Specifications:

  • 43mm Diameter Case in CUSN8 Bronze.
  • 51.5mm lug to lug length makes it extremely wearable.
  • 19mm thick
  • Sellita SW200 Swiss Movement
  • 7mm thick Sapphire crystal: Double Domed with AR coating
  • Water Resistance of 3000m
  • C3/BGW9 Superluminova on hands and markers
  • 1 Year international warranty

Price $949

https://zeloswatches.com/pages/abyss2

Zelos Abyss II

There are many standouts on the Zelos Abyss II, but I feel the biggest one is that dial. It is without a doubt one of the nicest sun-ray dials out there and a beautiful blue color. When you zoom in, you can see how precise the applied markers and hands are. This is truly a dial you can find yourself staring at and still not knowing the time. Zelos kept the dial clean as well, just the applied cutout logo, model name and the water resistance, and the last two are done small and tastefully, not plastered on the dial so you can see it from the other side of the room. That inner rotating bezel? That is for a second time zone and operated via the 2 clock crown.

Zelos Abyss II

The case of the Zelos Abyss II is obviously made of bronze. Deep circular brush lines are noticeable on the bezel and match the brushed dial. This machine brushing is not rough or irregular. It adds to the style overall appearance of the Abyss. Everything on this watch is overdone to an extent, and in this case, that’s not a bad thing. The case thickness is 19mm. That is crazy considering it is only a 43mm case. This is done not only for aesthetic but also the 3000 meters of water resistance. This watch is made to go in the water. I imagine only a select few will actually be doing that, but if you like chunky bronze watch, this is another option.

Zelos Abyss II

Zelos Abyss II

The crowns of the Zelos Abyss II make the watch feel wider than the stated 43mm, mostly because there are two of them. It just looks and wears like a 45mm watch. This is a big boy all around. The great thing is, all functions like it should. This watch is not just show, but made for go. Crown and bezel action are crisp, though the bezel on my example is a little hard to turn, this can ease up over time though. This is solid beast of watch, and you notice it when it is on the wrist. Many guys like that in a watch though and if you are looking for svelte or subtle, this one is definitively not it. Zelos will be releasing some future models though soon that will fit into those categories a little better.

Zelos Abyss II

Stainless steel or titanium case backs are usually on bronze or brass watches as it is not good to have bronze sitting against your skin like that, as it can lead to breakouts or reactions from the metal. The Zelos Abyss II went with stainless steel, and rather than show off the SW-200 movement, they went with a badass engraved case back. I’m sure many reading know I am a sucker for a nicely done case back such as this. It shows they put some thought into instead of just slapping a sapphire crystal over the movement.

Zelos Abyss II

Because one strap is just not good enough,  Zelos included 3. Very much like the Ventus Mori I just reviewed, there is a rubber strap, a leather and this time a leather/canvas strap. All 3 straps are of high quality and you can switch out the the bronze CNC buckle between them. I would say my favorite of the bunch is probably the rubber, it is super comfortable and I love the large keepers.

Zelos Abyss II

As usual, Zelos does not disappoint with the lume. Multi-colored superluminova is used on the dial, and the bezel as well as both crowns got some lume as well. While full bezel lume and lume on the crowns add no function at all, I will admit that it looks cool and is fun to photograph, even if gimmicky.

Zelos Abyss II

Zelos Abyss II

I have stated many times that bronze watches are not my go to. Neither is large or chunky divers, at least not for everyday wear. It would just not be my personal choice. With that said, are there any things that I do not like about the Zelos Abyss II? Not really. While it definitely is on the upper end of the price for most bronze microbrand watches, I would say it is probably worth it. When you really look at cost, and compare things, as we all do these days, you can break it down into 3 possibilities. Something is priced lower because it is of inferior quality, something is priced lower because they do not seek a profit to keep the company going, or it is just plain overpriced. I never tell anyone to buy a watch here, and I hope all know that whether I love, hate or somewhere in the middle of any watch I review, that is just one mans opinion. I will say that the Zelos Abyss II is beautiful, extremely well made and comes with a lot, even for its price tag. If it is not worth it to you, I get it. I feel the way with many products. But this is not the run of the mill microbrand. Zelos builds a hell of a watch, and they are only getting started…

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Tuesday 23 January 2018

Ventus Mori Diver | Hands on Watch Review

Ventus Mori Diver

Ventus Mori Diver

Ventus has released another version of the Mori Diver, this time in a gunmetal PVD steel and a stainless steel with blue. Previous versions of the Ventus Mori Diver only came in brass, so this is a variation for those who do not like brass or bronze watches. Ventus is what most call a budget or value brand, as the watches do offer a lot in terms of quality and materials for not a lot of coin. The Mori had a preorder period where it was available for $249, but even at the current price of $349, you are getting a lot of watch. The Mori comes in a wood box with a canvas travel roll and 3 straps to change up the look of your watch.

Ventus Mori Diver

Ventus Mori Specifications:

  • 41mm Gunmetal PVD Stainless Case
  • 20mm Lug Width
  • 48mm Lug to Lug
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • Seiko NH35 Automatic Movement
  • 300m Water Resistant
  • Aluminum Bezel Insert
  • C3 Superluminova
  • 3 Straps Included

Price $349 

*Unfortunately, at the time of publishing, the Gunmetal version is sold out. Elshan said he might have 1 or 2 pieces available, so email to check. The Stainless/blue version shows in stock as well as some brass versions.*

https://ventuswatches.com/collections/mori-diver

Ventus Mori Diver

I am a sucker for a sandwich dial and I like how the Ventus Mori Diver is laid out with the indices and chose not to go numerals on this model. I will say that vintage lume or faux patina lume is starting to get a little over done, though it does go well with the gunmetal case. The blue model has white markers and hands for those that do not like the faux vintage look. One thing that is noticeable is that the hands are a different shade than the indices, I do not know if this was on purpose or an accident. The hour and minute hand are on the small side as well and could be beefier. What I do like is how Ventus incorporated the three arrows in the watch, as that is where this model gets its name from.  From the Ventus website:

“The legend of the three arrows” is a story about Mōri Motonari. In an effort to get his sons to work together, he gave them each an arrow to break. This was done easily, and he challenged his sons to repeat it with three arrows bound together. This proved to be unbreakable.”

Ventus Mori Diver

While I like smaller watches these days, I do feel this is a small 41mm. It just wears small. To some, that is probably not a bad thing, but the Ventus Mori Diver feels dainty to me on the wrist, something that I obviously do not look for in a watch. Because of the thin profile and short lug to lug, it is of course comfortable on the wrist, almost to the point I did not realize it was on most of the time. When I wear a titanium watch, I expect that, but when I wear a steel watch I like it to be more noticeable. All three straps do have a nice length to them though and while they will not fit an 8 inch wrist, they work well on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Ventus Mori Diver

Ventus Mori Diver

Speaking of the straps, the Ventus Mori Diver does not come with 3 sub-par straps that were just thrown in the box, rather it comes with 3 good quality straps. The buckle does leave something to be desired, it is thin and the style really does not fit the watch, but the straps are great. The Horween leather and the tropic style rubber are my favorite of the bunch, but all are nice enough that if the Mori only came with one of them, I wouldn’t mind.

Ventus Mori Diver

The case design reminds you of a vintage Tudor or Rolex, but nothing here that comes off as a copy or even homage. The aluminum bezel insert has that pebbled coating allowing the overall aesthetic to be subtle, nothing flashy here. The crown, which is really small, does function well, but it is hard to grasp with my fingers. I know they were going for a smaller watch here, but the Ventus Mori Diver really could use larger hands and a larger crown. If you are someone with small hands, it most likely will not be an issue for you.

Ventus Mori Diver

I love that they chose to go with a stamped case back. The diver helmet, which we have seen many times before from other brands, just fits with a dive watch. This case back is clean, well machined and finished and gives the Ventus Mori Diver that little bit extra. They could have easily gone with just a plain etched case back and because of the price, I doubt many would complain. I love the finish used here as well, I also like that they went with a stainless back and left off the gunmetal coating. I do find it odd that they did not have new case backs made for the steel versions, as you can see below, it says brass. I understand that they could have made about 1000 case backs or more and needed to use them up, but that is a big oversight in my opinion.

Ventus Mori Diver

Ventus Mori Lume

Ventus Mori Diver

One of the most poplular budget microbrand models last year was the Dan Henry Diver, which was available in both 40 and 44mm sizes. I reviewed the original model here and it was a great super compressor style with a nice stamped case back as well, but had horrible lume and a mineral crystal. For just a little more money, the Ventus has a sapphire crystal, excellent lume, 3 different straps and uses the same movement. Granted, one of the biggest selling points of the Dan Henry was the design, but if are on a budget and want something of higher quality in a diver watch, the Ventus would not be a bad option. It is not my favorite because of the small hands and crown, but it is a good watch at a good price point.

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