Helm Khuraburi | Hands on Watch Review

Helm Khuraburi

I have always said, value is very subjective. Some may think a $3,000 watch is a value because of what it offers for that price point. The Helm Khuraburi is much less than $3,000, 10 times less actually, at a price of $300. The term “Bang for your buck”, can be used to describe the Khuraburi, which would be an accurate description. I am one man, and this is one man’s opinion, but the Khuraburi is one of the the best budget dive watches out on the market. Some may disagree and say that could go to the Seiko Monster or various other affordable dive watches out there. There are countless choices available these days. For what it is, especially in the microbrand world, this watch does rank very high on that list.

Helm Khuraburi Specifications:

• Brushed 316L Stainless Steel
• Diameter; 42 mm
• Diameter (with crown):  45 mm
• Bezel Diameter:  43 mm
• Lug to Lug:  49 mm
• Lug Width:  22 mm
• Height:  16 mm
• Weight: 225 Grams
• Sapphire Crystal and Bezel Insert
• Stainless Steel Bracelet
• 300 Meters Water Resistance
• Seiko NH38 Automatic Movement
• ISO 6425 Compliant

Price $300 plus $30 Worldwide Shipping

http://helmwatches.com/khuraburi2.html

If you read the specification list above or watched the video review already, you can see how much this watch has packed in to that $300 price point. It has been my experience that when a watch has all these elements for such a low price, corners have been cut. The finishing is not that great, there are rough edges on the bracelet or case back, or the dial work is sloppy, crown wobble, you name it. I can honestly say, not of that exists with the Helm Khuraburi. I have always considered Obris Morgan to be one of the leaders of the budget microbrand dive watches and not taking anything away from that brand, but man, this is a great watch for the price. If this watch were $200 more, I still do not think I would have an issue with it. The dial work is crisp, the machining and finishing is definitely up to par, the bracelet and clasp are solid and aesthetically pleasing; this watch just ticks all the boxes. I think they only thing some might complain about is the thickness.

At 43 X 49mm, the Khuraburi is not what one would consider a large watch. The profile though is a little different. The height is 16mm, which is on the thick side for a watch of these dimensions, but I will say that thickness adds to the look of this model. It is a robust watch at 225 grams with the bracelet and is not going to be that lightweight under the shirt cuff type of watch. It was not meant for that though. This is a dive watch, and is ISO 6425 compliant and water resistant to 300m. So, what if you do not dive? That is okay, I wager many reading this have never dived, yet own 10 dive watches in their collection. Some just like the look of a dive watch, which would make sense seeing as it is probably the most popular style of watch available. Some that own this watch or others like it, may never even get their watch wet. If you do not, it is a just a great looking sporty watch that if you chose to, could take the abuse from the pool, river, ocean, etc.

There are a few versions of the Helm Khuraburi, though all come standard with a stainless bracelet. Different colors are available, as well as two crown choices, the 10 o’clock version I show in this review and a more standard 4 o’clock version. I like both but chose this one just because while Helm is not the first brand to do this, it is definitely not the norm. It is harder to set the time on the wrist, as I wear my watch on the left hand, so that is something to keep in mind, but if you are a lefty, and wear your watch on your right, you would probably really appreciate this version. As shown in the video, the crown and bezel both operate as they should, with no issues I could detect, at least with this example.

One of my favorite aspects of the Khuraburi is the dial. Helm did not try and crowd the dial with a date, which would have interrupted the flow of the large hour markers. This is why they chose the Seiko NH38 movement-the no date version of the NH35. The large markers and hands are easy to read and make the dial stand out from many other dive watches on the market. Not really shark teeth like the Benarus Megalodon but similar in size and shape. These applied markers sit high off the dial and are immediately what grab your attention with the Khuraburi. The logo is not applied but is not flat paint on the dial, it is raised and has a nice gloss to it, making it pop. The dial text is also kept to the bare minimum, something I always appreciate. You do not need to write a novel on the dial of a watch.

The bracelet of Helm Khuraburi is heavy and chunky, which balances out the watch head. Solid steel links as one would expect and solid screw bars are used to hold the links together. It is recommended that any watch that has screws in the bracelet, whether one sided like these or the double sided versions, to use loctite to keep the screws from backing out once you have it sized where you want. Still, I find this to be the easiest method for sizing as all you need is a small jewelers screwdriver and you can size it in a few minutes. If you sized it and it is still a little too loose, there are plenty of micro adjustment holes in the clasp to help with that. One thing I do find odd though is the lack of a divers extension in the clasp.

While I like the bracelet, I have worn it more on the optional blue canvas strap. These straps can be purchased either seperately or when you are ordering a watch, which brings the price down to $20 instead of $28. Seriously, if you like canvas straps, it will be the best $20 you have ever spent. I own a few of the straps and wear them on multiple watches. I removed 3 links from the bracelet to fit on my 7 1/2 inch wrist. The canvas straps are on the short side though, so keep that in mind.

When a watch has really good lume, like the Helm Khuraburi does, I love photographing it. I don’t know why really, but I can take like 20 lume shots and I do so with a smile. I just love how a brightly glowing watch looks in the dark. The Khuraburi is lumed all over, so it not only makes for easy time telling in the dark, but a great photo as well.

There is not a whole lot left for me to say to wrap this review up. This is one of those rare times where I really did do a “glowing” review. If one does not like the look or design of the Helm Khuraburi, I get it, but as far as what it offers for the money, it is just flat out crazy. This is not a good watch because it is $300, it is a just a damn good watch, period. It is built well, finished well, wears comfortable on the wrist, and while I am not the biggest fan of the NH series movements, it makes sense at this price and I love that they went with the no date version. Bottom Line: The Helm Khuraburi delivers.

 

 

The post Helm Khuraburi | Hands on Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

Elliot Brown Bloxworth 2.0 | Hands on Watch Review

Elliot Brown Bloxworth 2.0

A few years ago, Michael Wolfe, a former reviewer here at Watchreport, did a pretty comprehensive review on the Elliot Brown Bloxworth. You can find that review here: https://www.watchreport.com/elliot-brown-bloxworth-watch-review/. 

The version I am reviewing today, which sells for $750 US direct, as Alex from Elliot Brown puts it, is an evolution and not a revolution of the model. Besides the aesthetic differences, which I will discuss in more detail below, a few minor things have been done to elevate the Bloxworth in production. The case back surface is now a little flatter and cleaner, and the chamfer that runs along the outer edge of the watch is sharpened up. Minor details here, but E.B is always looking to improve and make the best watch they know how. This 2.0 version comes in a few different colorways, but I was very struck by this grey/blue dial. It certainly is unique. The specifications have stayed the same, so you can grab that info from Michael’s review, but I will be discussing what I love, like and one thing that I do not like at all.

First and foremost, I love the look of the this Elliot Brown Bloxworth. It still has an elapsed timing bezel, but this time it has a silver aluminum bezel insert as opposed to black or blue. It just gives it an overall cleaner aesthetic and does not scream dive watch (This model is not considered a dive watch anyways). The blue/grey dial is flat out awesome. Elliot Brown lists this as grey dial, but it definitely, to me, is more blue then grey. I would label it a steel blue maybe. Wherever it lands on the color scale, it is striking. EB wanted to create a more relaxed version of the Bloxworth, more of an every day watch, and the dial played an important role in that. While the red accents and large dial markers still evoke that of a sport watch, it is less rugged looking than previous versions.

At 44mm, it is in my comfort zone of what I personally will wear these days, but more importantly, it has a lug to lug of 53mm. That is a tall watch, yet it does not feel like it on the wrist for some reason. I never got to try the original version of the Bloxworth that Michael reviewed, which was on a stainless bracelet. That may wear a little large, but the curved ends of the strap allow it to wear less flat on my wrist than I initially thought it would. The push-pull crown is easy to get at while on the wrist, as are the pushers, and I just find this watch to be comfortable on the wrist, even though it is at the top end of the size spectrum for every day wear for me. If you have not read Michael’s review yet and are not familiar with the specs, even though this does not have a screw down crown, it is still water resistant to 200 meters. Below is a picture on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

As I mention in the video, I did find one area to be improved on this Elliot Brown Bloxworth 2.0 version. That would be the deployant on the strap. The pebbled leather strap is beautiful and well made and has blue stitching that gives it an ever so subtle pop of color. I can not complain about the strap at all. The buckle though is another story. The deployant just needed to be sanded down more, it is sharp on all almost every edge of it, and you can really feel it on the wrist. I am sure someone handy could sand it down and buff it and in a few minutes it would be fine, but they should not have to. I am hoping this is just my example. On a more positive not, the buckle has a lumed logo, just like on the previous models, which is a cool touch.

Lume shots can always be deceiving. First, any time you go to take a lume shot, you charge it up first with a light source. Then, depending on your aperature and shutter speed, you can really overexpose the lume and make it look like a torch. I always try my best here to give you a look at what the lume really looks like in person. Yes, it is fully charged in the photo below, but this is what it will look like after being charged for about 30 seconds or so. It is a nice cool blue Super-luminova and while the hands and markers glow pretty bright, the little bit of lume on the bezel insert is mostly useless.

With this model getting and extensive review in the past, I keep directing you to Michael’s review linked above, but I want to point out a few key aspects of the Elliot Brown Bloxworth, without rehashing what Michael wrote. At $750, the Bloxworth is on the high side for what many are willing to spend on a quartz watch. Keep in mind, this is not just a regular quartz watch. I think you can see from my photos and video, just how well this watch is put together and Elliot Brown tests their watches to extremes, as I have talked about in the past. Do not let the leather strap on this model fool you, it still has a Swiss Made Ronda 5030D movement, steel and elastomer movement holder for superb shock resistance, triple sealed crown and pushers, bolt down case back with over-sized seals, and a hardened mineral crystal. That last one, yes, I prefer sapphire, but EB chose mineral because while it can scratch easier, it is more impact resistant, and that is what they want with these models. As I always state, I am not here to sell you on the watch. I really like this new version of the Bloxworth, minus the deployant buckle, and I think it offers a nice alternative to the original versions.

If you want to check it out, you can do so in the link below. I have also included a link to a few videos that Elliot Brown sent me, showing some of the tests they have  done to their watches.

https://www.elliotbrownwatches.com/bloxworth/929-015-l16

https://vimeo.com/173901500

Thank you for reading.

 

 

 

The post Elliot Brown Bloxworth 2.0 | Hands on Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

Unity Black Pearl Diver Launches on Kickstarter

Unity Black Pearl Diver

Unity Watches, who hail from Barcelona, Spain, have launched their third model, the Unity Black Pearl Diver. They chose to launch on Kickstarter this time, for some extra exposure. Some may not be familiar with the Spanish brand, but they have been making their own watches in house since 2010. When I say they have been making their watches in house, they are not only designing the watches but actually machining and assembling the cases in their shop in Barcelona. Even though they have been around for quite a few years now, they have been kind of a sleeper brand, as their first models were a little different in terms of style. Nothing wrong with them, I just do not think they hit the mark for everyone. The Unity Black Pearl Diver is custom made case and dial but it has the cushion case shape so many of us watch enthusiasts are familiar with, and should appeal to a wider audience.

The Unity Black Pearl Dial is a 316 L stainless case that measures in at 43mm in width with a length from lug to lug of 51mm. This is a good size for most, it is not too large and not small either. It is water resistant to 300 Meters and has domed sapphire crystal with AR coating. Dial hands, markers and bezel have all been coated with Super-luminova, as you would expect for a dive watch. Early Bird pricing comes in at $570 USD, and that gives backers the Black Pearl with a stainless bracelet, rubber strap with Pre-V buckle, strap tool and leather travel case. Delivery is scheduled for June 2018.

It is always difficult for me to comment on a watch with never seeing it in person, but from the photos and video I see on their campaign, I like what I am seeing. I have always like the cushion case dive watches and the dimensions are right on target for what I wear these days. The hands are a little different for sure and look to be a little small for the dial, but that could just be the photos. The bezel reminds me a of Clerc watches, but not a complete copy, more inspired if anything. As I said above, I do not think Eduardo, owner of Unity, was trying to reinvent the dive watch with this release, but offer something that hits a larger audience.

The choice of movement for the Unity Black Pearl Diver is not very well known, and that may give people some hesitation. I had a Unity Watch years ago with this movement and do not recall any issues at the time, but it was probably 6 years ago now. I do know Resco used to use the Valanvron V24, which is essentially a copy of the ETA 2824, built by Seagull out of China. The movement, to the best of my knowledge and research, is then sent to Switzerland to be reworked and assembled to get the Swiss Made label. It is a direct replacement for the ETA 2824, with the same dimensions and jewels.

I like what I see, but that is as much as I can comment on. Hopefully when the watches are produced I can get a more hands on look, but until then, if you are interested in the Unity Black Pearl Diver, you can check them out on Kickstarter or their Website below.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1542410278/black-pearl-300-meters-a-piece-of-barcelona-on-you/description

http://unitywatches.com/en/unity-diving-watch/

 

 

The post Unity Black Pearl Diver Launches on Kickstarter appeared first on WatchReport.com.

Zelos Mako Diver | Hands On Watch Review

Zelos Mako Diver

Zelos only makes big watches! Why doesn’t Zelos put out a 40mm watch? These are some of the questions I would see on my Zelos reviews, or on Facebook groups and forums. Well, to those out there wanting a smaller Zelos, your praying and wishing is over. The Zelos Mako Diver is your answer and it comes in at 40mm with a lug to lug of 46mm. It is also available to order and will ship immediately, yet it is on pre-order pricing. At the time of this publication (The Mako went on sale March 6, 2018), this variation I have in hand is $399. Other variations are available as well, including a meteorite dial, for $569. One of the reasons it is such a good deal at this price is because it has a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. Not the NH35 we are so accustom to seeing, but the same movement Oris has been using for years. Matter of fact, I just reviewed the Oris Divers Sixty-Five recently, which uses this same movement. Now, at $400, you can not expect it to be in the Oris league, but as usual, Zelos puts out a lot of watch, for not a lot of money.

Zelos Mako Diver Specifications:

• 316 L Stainless Steel Case
•  40mm Diameter
• 20mm Lug width
• 46mm Lug to Lug Length
• 13.5mm thickness without crystal
• Water Resistance : 500m
• Crystal : Sapphire, 2.5mm thick vintage style ‘Box’ crystal
• Bezel : 120 Clicks, Ceramic insert with 2000 Vickers hardness
• Movement : Swiss Sellita SW200
• Dial : Textured with C3 and BGW9 lume
• Rubber and Leather Straps

Initial Price $399

https://zeloswatches.com/collections/mako-500m-diver

As you can see in the specs above, Zelos went all out again with the Mako. Two straps, a ceramic bezel insert, the SW200 movement, domed sapphire and more. From looking at their website, this price will be more at some point, so it is weird from a review perspective as far as which price do I review at. $399 or $749, which is what it will eventually be. Well, being honest, because of the movement, the $749 price tag is feasible. At $399, it is definitely a bargain, at the very least because of the movement. That does not mean I find this watch to be perfect, you guys know me better than that. I do have a few issues, so keep reading.

When it comes to build quality, that is never one of my issues with Zelos Watches. The Zelos Mako Diver is no different. The finishing is great as always; all brushed with a thin high polish chamfer to give a nice aesthetic to the case, no rough edges around the bezel or crown, or on the underside of the lugs, which is something I always check for. Zelos is at the top of the game in the microbrand world for a reason-they do not put out a sub par watch, at least not in my opinion. The bezel action is tight on my example, but I can still turn it and even though this is a smaller watch, the bezel itself is thick enough to allow my hands to get a good grip. Unfortunately, the same can not be said for the crown. Between the integrated crown guard and what I consider to be a small crown, it is just hard for me to use. Actually, it is really hard. It aggravated me quite a bit actually. If you have large hands/fingers, be warned.  If you have small to medium sized hands/fingers, you should be fine.

The dial pattern of the Zelos Mako Diver is a nice touch. They could have just went with a sunburst dial, or a matte dial as so many brands do, but they wanted the Mako to stand out a little more. One thing that is a little odd is the use of the shark teeth triangle markers. As you can see, they are in addition to the large applied markers, and there are only 3 of them. I get that what they were going for here, but I wish they just used those shark teeth in place of the round markers. On a more positive note, Zelos matched the date wheel to the dial and they put the date in my favorite spot, the 6 o’clock position.

The Zelos Mako Diver wears very comfortably on the wrist, but I do find it a little small for my 7 1/2 inch wrist. I have embraced smaller watches the past few years and have worn 40mm watches in a rotation as well, but the short lug to lug length keeps me from wanting to wear this one more. For those of you out there that want a smaller watch or have small wrists, this will be perfect. The Tropic style rubber is a great strap, and the second strap, a brown leather that I show in the video, is a nice addition, but does not really go with this color combo. Black, blue and brown just does not go together.

As usual, the lume on a Zelos is fantastic. Two types of lume are used on the Mako Diver, C3 Super-Luminova and BGW9. The lume is bright and will last about 4 hours or so, but I was still able to see the time after a 6 hour slumber, but I had to wait for my eyes to adjust to the dark, but that is par for the course. This is not Seiko or Lum-tec category, but it is above average for sure.

This Zelos Mako Diver is obvioulsy not a home run for me. Not all watches are. I love the fact that Zelos listened to feedback from their customers and made a 40mm dive watch. It shows he pays attention. The type of interaction you can have with a man like Elshan is something you can not get with the bigger brands. It is one of the things that makes microbrands special, that direct contact with the owner and designer. The Mako is just too small for me, but I know many are going to love it. It has a great dial pattern, the domed sapphire, and it is 500 Meters Water resistant and a has a fully indexed bezel for the real divers. Let’s not forget about the Swiss movement for a $399 price tag. Zelos always impresses me for sure. I would love this in a 43mm with a larger crown, but I am only one guy. There are more than enough watches out there to fit the average wrist, this one is for the rest of you out there that want something more manageable. This would probably look great on a woman as well, though my girlfriend said it was a little too big for her. Go figure.

Please be sure to check out the gallery below and leave your comments as well.

The post Zelos Mako Diver | Hands On Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.