Monday 28 August 2017

E.C. Andersson North Sea II | Hands on Watch Review

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

The E.C. Andersson North Sea II is of course the second version of this model, the first was funded through Kickstarter.  It is a watch that can be used for all occasions, out on the sea, in the board room, the dining room and with your t-shirt and jeans for a casual day in the town. As the website states-“The Scandinavian way of design is clean, sophisticated, functional and durable. Northerners simply enjoy products that will last, both in quality and style.” Obviously, E.C Andersson is situated in Scandinavia and has set forth to apply their way of life into the design of his watch. I have never been to Scandinavia, but have read enough about it to believe the philosophy of the brand and I would say overall, he has achieved it. Unfortunately, I feel the North Sea II has some quarks that I will discuss below.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

E.C Andersson North Sea II Specifications:

  • 40mm Stainless Steel Case
  • 22mm Lug Width
  • 12mm Thick
  • 48mm Lug to Lug
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • 100 Meters WR
  • Seiko NH05 Automatic Movement

Price: $586 USD (Converted)

https://www.ecandersson.com/product/north-sea-ref-ns02fd/

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

The design of the E.C. Andersson North Sea II is familiar, Panerai of course comes to mind.  It has that pillow style case with thin angled lugs and and an old door knob style crown, at least that is what it reminds me of. They have kept the look somewhat industrial with just a touch of polish on the bezel, crown and lugs. Being that it is only 100 meters water resistant I was pleasantly surprised to see it utilized a screw down crown, which is very smooth and I like the way it screws down into the case. At 40mm with its square shape, it is a good size for me and for many who are not wanting to do the over-sized wrist brick these days. Even though it may look a little wonky at first, I give the overall case design an A.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

While I love the look of the E.C. Andersson North Sea II, there are some serious things to discuss. A few weeks ago, E.C. Andersson posted on a few different sites promoting this newer version of the North Sea, and stating the upgrades they have done to the case and movement. Larger crown, a double dome AR coated sapphire crystal and they claim they did significant work on the Seiko NH05 movement. Apparently they found some issues with this movement, most notably the second hand would stutter and they decided to investigate. They pulled the movement apart, and all said and done they added a metal movement holder, stronger dial clamps and regulated it to great accuracy.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

That all sounds great doesn’t it? Well, the other thing they did was remove the second hand. Now, I am not a genius, some will say far from it, but if you were to regulate it, add dial clamps and movement holder and still have to remove the second hand, something is clearly wrong with the movement, or at least the set of movements that you bought and you need to figure out something so you do not take a loss. When you have a watch that you claim is a sporty, all-occasion type of watch and it does not have a second hand, it is, well-it’s odd. Instead of continuing to harp on it, I will let you, the reader, or more importantly the consumer, decide if a second hand is important to you or just does not matter.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

I have seen some express their dislike for the open date wheel in the center of the dial on the E.C. Andersson North Sea. Weirdly, that is something I actually like. Usually I hate open date wheels of any kind, but considering this actually adds to the dial aesthetic, I kind of dig it. I really like the entire dial and applied markers are always a plus. The markers themselves seem to have a good amount of lume application, but the same can not be said with the hands. Refer to the photo below:

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

As I pointed out in the video the case brushing of the E.C. Andersson North Sea II seems a little rough and uneven to me. I always have to point this out, but it is possible that it is only this sample and I can not say this brushing or the lume are the same on all watches, it could just the be example I have in hand. Unfortunately that is all I have to go on, so I will let you decide for yourself.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

The rubber strap is a stock strap, or off the shelf that has been branded for E.C. Andersson and while it is a good size strap, it is one that has to be cut to be sized-something I detest, and has a super strong vanilla scent. I would have preferred a regular rubber minus the scent and a standard buckle. I had personally worn the North Sea II on a canvas strap of my own.

 

E.C. Andersson North Sea II

 

If I look at the E.C. Andersson on paper, it would seem like it has a lot to offer. In the flesh, the subtraction of the second hand, the super reflective crystal, uneven brushing and the rubber strap leaves me feeling there is more work to be done to make this a home run. As I have stated multiple times, I like the overall look and size and think with a few tweaks it could really be a watch that enthusiasts would want. If they decide to do a third version, maybe a different movement would be the way to go and the other issues I mentioned are easily corrected. E.C Andersson is a young brand so there is always room for improvement and I hope they take this review as constructive, as that is how it is intended.

Thank you and please leave your comments below.

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Thursday 24 August 2017

Trigalux T-Diver | Hands on Watch Review

Trigalux T-Diver

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

There are many watch enthusiasts out there who love watches but can just not afford to drop $500, $600 and more on a watch. That is where these “budget” microbrands come in to play. The Trigalux T-Diver is one that would fall under that banner, and for around $300-it offers a lot of value. Now, I know, budget and affordable is very subjective, but from what I read on the forums, Facebook group, etc., $300 is a good price point. And while there are many brands offering $300 watches these days, not every one is a gem. I think Trigualux is on the right path, so keep reading if you want to know more about this vintage-esque budget diver.

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

Trigalux T-Diver Specifications:

  • 316L Polished Stainless Steel
  • 42mm Case
  • 49mm Lug to Lug
  • 22mm Lug Width
  • 112 grams
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • 200 Meters Water Resistant
  • 24 Month Warranty
  • Price-$300 USD

https://www.trigalux.com/tienda/relojes/t-diver-200m/

 

Trigualux T-Diver

 

The Trigalux brand may be new, but the owner is not. Angelo, the man behind the former brand Luxmento, is continuing with his re-luming services and has started this new venture as well. I am not sure what happened with Luxmento exactly, but I have to say I like the Trigualux T-Diver better than any Luxmento model I have seen (and reviewed). Now that is obviously personal taste-I love a nice retro style dive watch. When I reached out to Angelo to discuss a review, I immediately asked for the orange model to be sent. I am happy with that choice, as I am a sucker for a good orange dial, and something about the case design and overall aesthetic just works with orange, not all watches can pull off the orange. In hindsight, I wish I looked at the other colors available, only because there is a blue-green dial that looks striking and different from the colors I usually see offered. There is also yellow and a standard black. Something else I did not pay attention to was the price. I did not know what the price was until the T-Diver landed and I started my due diligence on the model and brand. While you already know the the price, because I did not until it was in hand, it was quite a surprise. I know, it is very cliche to say, especially these days, but I honestly had no idea this was only a $300 watch.

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

Now, I will be the first to admit that I am not a huge fan of an all polished case on a dive watch, but somehow it works here. I tried to picture it being all brushed or a bead blasted and I am not sure how it would look. That could just be I am having trouble visioning it, but regardless, the all polished has grown on me- for the T-Diver anyways. This entire watch is polished too, the bezel, the crown, the inside of the lugs, case back, you name it. Someone said to me the reason that might be is because it is easier to do than a nice brushed finish (one that looks good) at this price point. That may be. I rag on a lot of watches that have uneven or sub-par brushing, so that may be it. Or maybe Trigalux just wanted to do something a little different. Back to the bezel and crown; both operate very well with no issue, except the that it is ever so slightly misaligned. My OCD did kick in and it does still bother me a bit, but I like so much about the watch I can overlook it. I will say it could just be this example, but if you are worried about that, make sure to email before ordering and tell them you want the bezel checked prior to one being shipped out.

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

In the video I discuss the lume at length, so I will not harp on it too much here, but the X5 lume, which is a proprietary mix of lume from Trigalux, and optional when ordering, is fantastic for sure, I just am not sure how much better it is than C3 Superluminova. That is my take on it, but do not let that lead you to believe the lume is not good, because it is. It is is great as a matter of fact.

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

The Trigalux T-Diver comes on a rally style rubber strap, sort of reminiscent of a hershey style Breitling strap in construction, but with the holes. It is a natural rubber as far as I can tell and not silicone, and very comfortable on the wrist. It should also fit a 7 inch to 8 inch wrist with ease. If you want to switch out the strap to something else, you will notice the lug hole placement. The lugs on the T-Diver are very short, so the lug holes were placed as far out as possible so it can accommodate a fairly thick strap. So if you have a nice thick leather or Isofrane you think would look good on this, you should have no issues installing it.

 

Trigalux T-Diver

 

Under the polished case back is a Seiko NH35 automatic movement which has become pretty standard fare this past year or so for microbrands in the $200-$500 range. This example in the Trigalux T-Diver is within specs as far as accuracy and I have stated many times that while it it is not a high beat super accurate movement, it is dependable and a much better option than a Miyota 8200 series if you need something on the inexpensive side.

 

 

This was a refreshing review-at least from my end, as I really am quite attached to the Trigalux T-diver and as you can see, I really do not have any issues with it. Yes, the misaligned bezel should not be, but it really is just off so slightly, that it is not some glaring issue that would make me go off on the brand. And yes, they all could be like this, or it is just my example. But I reviewed the watch as is, as I have seen much worse and did not feel that it warranted having a replacement sent. For $300, it is a hell of a watch, and while I do not like to tell anyone to buy a watch and the reality is I can not say if you would not be disappointed with it, for me, it is a winner. That is the best I can do on my end.

 

Thank you all and please leave your comments below.

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Thursday 17 August 2017

Votum Watches Heritage | Hands on Review

Votum Watches Heritage

 

 

Another hibernating brand has been brought back to life, this time Votum. I have had the Votum Watches Heritage model in hand for a few weeks and I must say there is a lot I like about it, and a few things I do not. But first, who were Votum Watches and who brought them back out of deep sleep? Well, two Swiss Designers, François Zahnd – Owner and CEO of watch manufacturing company Fashiontime ltd. and Rolf Bodmer – graphic designer from Zürich are at the helm of the current Votum. Doing a little research, they bought the rights to the name in 2015, and in 2016 ran a successful Kickstarter campaign to help with funding. What is interesting and easily searchable is there was another Votum Watches campaign on Kickstarter, but in 2015. These Votum Watches were MUCH different and under $100, and pretty much cheap fashion watches. They had a different logo and reminded me of MVMT Watches in terms of aesthetic. They were made in Hong Kong, not Switzerland, and they were unsuccessful in getting funded. I am guessing this was before the current owners got rights to the Votum name. I do find it weird that two Votum brand ran a Kickstarter campaign within a year of each other. With all that said, let’s take a look a the inspiration for the Heritage model, a classic Votum.

 

Votum Watches Heritage

 

Votum Watches Heritage Specifications:

Case – 316L Stainless steel
Caseback – Display caseback, screwed back
Diameter – 41.50mm
Height – 11.40mm
Lug to lug – 48.5mm
Movement – Automatic Swiss Made ETA 2824-2
Power reserve – 40 hours
Functions – Hour/minute/second, date at 6H
Crystal – Scratch resistant domed Sapphire
Dial – Metal dial, black
Hands – Nickel black, diamond cut
Lume – BWG9 SuperLuminova – dial/hands
Strap – 21mm genuine leather, steel buckle
Water resistance – 100m/10ATM
Warranty – 24 Months
Packaging – Genuine leather pouch

Price $764 USD

https://www.votumwatches.com/collections/heritage/products/heritage-rb-10-215-20-14

 

 

If you take a look at the vintage model and then the modern version, you can see where they got the inspiration for the Votum Watches Heritage model. There are a few other models from Votum as well, with different dials and features, but all share the same case design. Since I only have the Heritage in hand and it is the closest to one of the classic models, I will focus on just this one, but if you like what you see, check out the Votum website for the others. One thing that stands out immediately is that there are not the same amount of lines on the dial on the new vs. the old. While I am usually a fan of less is more, I feel the vintage model looked better, more cohesive if you will. Also, for some reason they chose to double brand the dial, with a logo and the brand spelled out. If you look at the classic model, it was much classier in my opinion with the brand name on the dial. I wish the new owners went with a modern take on that instead of the current face.

 

 

Now, I know it is difficult to resurrect a brand, even a brand that might not have been very well known in its heyday. When I first saw this new Votum, the name sounded familiar, but I do not remember them being discussed as a vintage brand to own either. Granted, there were so many brands from the 60’s and 70’s that are no more, that is hard to keep track. If you are a vintage collector or were buying watches back then, leave a comment under the review and let me know if you remember the original Votum. The brand produced watches from 1962 to the mid 70’s the best I can tell, and then disappeared, most likely due to the quartz crisis, as it is referred to often. But I get it, if you just create the model almost right down to its original specs, people will say you did not do anything to change it. If you just slap the name on something completely different, people will say you are ruining the brand. I would say Votum, as far as design and aesthetic are somewhere in the middle.

 

 

So where does the Votum Watches Heritage land on quality? Well, I would give them a B+ overall. Case finish and crown action are very nice, as well as a wonderful buttery soft leather strap. Even though not exactly the same, the dial is attractive, (minus the double branding) and every aspect of it is beautifully machined and finished. For some reason though, the look of the case feels a little generic to me. I do not mean cheap, but just generic, it just does not stand out. Maybe part of that is just how many watches I see and handle all the time, so maybe I am a bit jaded and need a pair of rose colored glasses, but I feel the design could have been dressed up a bit.

 

 

On the bright side, they have kept the Votum Watches Heritage on the smaller side, coming in at 41.5mm, which is most likely a good few mm larger than its vintage counterpart, but they did not go and make it 45mm either. To keep that classic feel but still modern, 40mm would have probably been a better bet, but that is subjective and nothing more. Keeping with a positive vibe, how bout that movement?! No, seriously though, Votum has went with the tried and true ETA 2824 to run the Heritage and still keep the price at under $800 USD. No decorations to the movement, but they did sign the rotor, which you can see through the display case back.

 

 

7 1/2 inch wrist for reference

 

 

While it may seem like I am being a little harsh, I am not, and I do like the Votum Watches Heritage model. It is a Swiss Made watch with a great dependable movement for well under $1000. It has a somewhat unique dial and a sapphire crystal (needs a much better AR coating though) and a fantastic leather strap. They also have other versions with alligator leather, metal bracelets, different dial colors, etc, so the choices are there. I think I was just wanting a little something more to the case. As is, the Votum Heritage has a classic look and feel and is an attractive that would blend in with almost any type of wardrobe. Does it rock my world? No. That is okay though. They all do not have to. I can definitely see the appeal and do appreciate it for what it is. Hopefully this is not the only case design we see from Votum, who knows, maybe they are working on something as I type.

Does the Votum Heritage rock your world? Let us know in the comments below.

 

Votum Watches Heritage

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