Hanhart Pioneer One | Hands On Watch Review

Hanhart Pioneer One

The Hanhart Pioneer One. A watch that many wanted but never happened. Until Now. Going back through Hanhart’s history, they only made chronograph watches, with one exception; The Pioneer Preventor 9. While that was not a chronograph, it lacked the fluted bezel and red marker and also had a small seconds disc instead of the traditional second hand. The Pioneer One is the first three hand automatic from the historic brand and is now available in two dial colors, black (as shown here) and white, both with matching date wheels. For many, this is a dream come true. Hanhart took design elements for this model from the the 417 ES Flyback, an iconic watch from the 50’s that was once worn by the famous Steve McQueen in one of his movies. Coming in at around $1000, it is also one of the most affordable modern Hanhart Watches to date.

Hanhart Pioneer One Specifications:

• 42mm Stainless Steel Case
• 12mm Thick
• 51mm Lug to Lug
• 22mm Lug Width
• Fluted Bezel with Red Marker
• 8mm Crown
• Matching Date Wheel
• Sapphire Crystal Front and Back
• Sellita SW200 Movement with Signed Rotor
• Brown Distressed Leather Strap with Rivets

Price $1000 USD (Roughly)

http://pioneerone.hanhart.com/

http://www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/Hanhart-Pioneer-One-Limited-Edition-p3557.htm

Before I get into how much I adore this piece and my few minor quibbles, let me clear up some confusion a few might have. This is not the first version of the Hanhart Pioneer One to be released. That honor would go to one that was done for a German Watch forum. That one is no longer available. The other one is a Watchbuys (Hanhart Distributor in US) limited edition, of which only 150 are available, and I am sure that number is dwindling fast. There are a few differences between the LE versions and this regular production version, most notably would be vintage colored lume instead of standard C3, a solid case back and the exclusion of the date. They both seem to have a darker case finish or blasting as well.  I included a link to the Watchbuys website, because the limited version is in stock at the time of this review being published. I have no idea how long they will last.

The Hanhart Pionner One has very much the same look as the MK I Monopusher Chronograph I reviewed here last year. This one comes in a little wider though at 42mm, though it is noticeably thinner at 12mm thick. This watch is svelte and should fit nicely under any shirt cuff or jacket. I can not deny I absolute love this case design and overall aesthetic. It is just a darn attractive watch to me. It is classic, has that military field/pilot look and goes with almost anything. Hanhart kept the dial very clean and chose to not put the model name on the front and while there is a date wheel, it blends in nicely with the dial. The Arabic numerals are of course easy to read and when you look close, you can see the circular pattern beneath them. The base dial is matte finish and while I do like it, it can be considered a little bland.

Unlike the limited versions of the Hanhart Pioneer One, which have dark PVD or blasted cases, the standard version utilizes 3 different finishes. The fluted bezel is blasted, underneath is a polished ring, the mid case is finely brushed and then you have a polished crown. On the case back you will find both brushed and polished parts as well. I really like the way that Hanhart did this. When you write it all down or say it, it sounds like it may be all over the place, design wise. When you look at it though, it is a different story. It all works together nicely and shows an attention to detail. Hanhart could have easily just went with all brushed, especially at this price point, but they chose to make it a little more sophisticated.

Beating away inside the Hanhart Pioneer One is the Sellita SW200 movement, which as we all know is basically a clone of the ETA 2824. I have no issues with this movement, never have, and as you may know, many companies have been utilizing this movement. With the nature and style of this watch, I would have preferred the engraved Hanhart solid case back, but I know they needed to differentiate it from the LE models, so they went exhibition sapphire. The laser cut rotor is a nice touch, and gives a little eye candy to an otherwise plain movement.

So, let’s get to my two issues. They really are not issues, but just a few things I noticed. One is the fluted bezel. I know it is the design and function of it, but it just moves too easily for me. I just wish it was a little tighter is all. The other is the buckle. It is a plain thumbnail buckle and not the same solid custom buckle like on the Pioneer MK I that I reviewed. It was a slight letdown. I do also find the strap to be on the short side and because of the very low profile of the Hanhart Pioneer One, the large crown can dig into the back of your hand, depending on how you wear it.

I rarely expect good lume from a watch of this style, but Hanhart always seem to impress me in this department. Even though it is not a dive watch, they loaded up on the lume. Below are two pictures, a glamour one showing off the lume with a good amount of light still in the room, and one of it actually in the dark.

I think it is pretty clear how I feel about the Hanart Pioneer One. It is a fantastic watch, from a fantastic company, that after all this time is still underrated, which makes me scratch my head. Not only is Hanhart a huge part of the history of watches, but these days, their watches are very affordable for what they are and how well they are made. The Pioneer One is of course even more inexpensive as it lacks the chronograph movement, but the quality is still there and Hanhart continues to punch above their weight. It is great piece from a great brand, and here is hoping to more variations of this model in the future, like 40mm or 44mm versions, different dials, etc.

 

 

 

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Helm Vanuatu Version 4 | Updated Review

Helm Vanuatu Version 4

It is quite rare for a brand to not only update and improve on their watch, but also drop the price significantly as well. That is the case with the Helm Vanuatu Version 4. As I dicuss in the video above, almost 3 years ago, I reviewed the original version of the Vanuatu. I had a quite a few issues and stated that if they were rectified, that it would be a fantastic watch. Helm did just that, and dropped the price from $350 to $275. Not only are you getting a better watch than the first version, but you are getting it at $75.00 off. For the most part, the watch is unchanged in look, with the exception of the black border around the hour and minute hand. The size is still 43mm, it still uses a Seiko NH35 automatic movement, sapphire crystal and a super engineer style bracelet with a custom Helm buckle. Everything is just refined more. The case back engraving, once sharp to the touch, and just somewhat rough in general, is now nice and smooth. Same with the bracelet. The lume has been greatly improved from that very first sample, and the bezel turns precisely and without any play whatsoever.

Keep in mind, these issues were mostly rectified in version 2 of the Helm Vanuatu, about 2 years ago. This is just the first time I have been able to see the latest in hand. Helm only has 2 models so far, the Vanuatu and the Khuraburi, which I also reviewed here recently. Both are excellent watches for the money and I can see why so many own both. I am hoping they are working on a third model, and if the aforementioned models are any indication, it will not only be good quality, but also another great value. Make sure to watch the video above, and check out the gallery below for some shots I took of the Helm Vanuatu Version 4.

 

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Victorinox Maverick Automatic | Hands on Watch Review

Victorinox Maverick Automatic

I have been of fan of Victorinox Swiss Army watches since I was a kid. I think my first one was a Calvary model, back in the early 90’s. Today, I have the Victorinox Maverick Automatic in hand, a watch that I have always admired the look of, yet have never owned one. Well, at least I do not think I owned one. I did a lot of watch trading back in the mid 2000’s, so one of the quartz versions could have passed through my hands and I am just not recalling it. This one though, is the ETA 2824 automatic and has a beautiful grey sunray dial (blue also available as well) and a solid chunky bracelet. While it does look like a dive watch, it technically is not, as it is only 100 meters water resistant and lacks a screw down crown. Do not let that deter you though. This is a very well built watch, as you would expect from Victorinox.

Victorinox Maverick Automatic Specifications:

• 43mm Stainless Steel Case
• 22mm Lug Width
• 12 mm thick
• 51mm Lug to Lug
• 190 Grams
• Sapphire Crystal
• 100 Meters WR
• ETA 2824 Automatic Movement

Price: $895 

https://www.swissarmy.com/us/en/Products/Watches/Mens-Watches/Maverick-Mechanical/p/241705

When I first took the Victorinox Maverick Automatic out of the box, I was a little taken aback by the its size. Now, I realize that may seem silly to some as it is only 43mm, but for some reason it seemed much larger. I know I am used to smaller watches, but I easily wear up to 45mm, and a lot just depends on how a watch is made, the overall dimensions, the lugs, etc. When I got it up in my office, I measured it with the calipers and realized the width including crown and guards was 47mm. I then realized why it looked a little bigger to me. It also has a non tapered oyster style bracelet with center links that sit prouder than the outer ones, and gives the impression of being bigger than it is. The bracelet does not taper either, and all of these just make it feel bigger than the written specifications would imply. The Maverick is not a gigantic watch or anything like that, but it does wear a little larger than I thought it would, and has a real nice heft to it as well. This is a solid watch. Below is a shot on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

I love the dial of the Victorinox Maverick Automatic. A grey dial is something I seem to gravitate to more and more, and I am glad  to see more brands offering it. The sunray dial here will of course look more silver in some light and more charcoal grey in others, that is the beauty of it. To keep the dial clean, Victorinox chose to stamp the 24 hour time markers on the center dial, but did not fill them in with enamel. This was a good idea, it keeps the dial clean, but still useful. At the 6 o’clock position is my favorite date placement, as some of you may know. I just think this is the best place to put a date, keeps it out of the way of any numerals or markers. Just a damn good dial design.

Of course being a Swiss brand, the Victorinox Maverick Automatic houses a Swiss movement; The ETA 2824. As far as I can tell, this is a standard movement, not Elabore or Top, and I do not believe they are regulating it beyond what was done at the factory. Accuracy has been about -7 seconds a day over a week period, which is pretty good and of course could be better if regulated. As the standard ETA is a rather plain movement, VSA chose to etch the rotor with their logo, which is always a nice touch. At least it has a little something going on. If this were a true dive watch, I would probabably be whining about the exhibition case back, but since this is really only a diver style watch, I have no issue with it. While the ETA 2824 is a “workhorse”, It would have been great to have its more accurate and thinner brother, the ETA 2892 used.

One of the finer details of the Vitctorinox Maverick Automatic is the bezel insert. It is a gunmetal coated steel which has a brushed finish applied, which kinda gives it a distressed look. It matches the sunray pattern and color of the dial, and it just makes this model look a little more distinct.  Another feature I really am enamored with is the bracelet. It is a hefty bracelet and the links being done as they are, with the center link sitting above the others, makes it three dimensional, instead of the perfectly flat bracelets we are used to. While I do like this, I do not know if it would work on all types of watches, but it adds to the sportiness of this Maverick.

This brings to me one area of disappointment. The lume. Or should I say, lack there of. For some reason, Victorinox just does not apply enough lume, or does not use the right lume compound for their watches. There is so much good about this watch that the rather bleak lume really aggravates me. The Maverick was right there, it was touching the brass ring, and then it let go. As you can see, the hour and minute hand and the bezel pip glow decently bright, but the rest of it, well, is just abysmal.

To sum it all up, I would give the Victorinox Maverick Automatic a B. Yes, the lume is majorly disappointing, but there rest of the watch is so good that I can look past it and give it a better than passing grade. Had this had stellar lume, I would have given it an A. I love the way it looks, the quality and craftsmanship is where it should be and it feels great on the wrist. It is still a winner, but it is like the second prettiest woman in the bar wanting to go home with you. You are happy with what you got, but wanted better. If you can look past the lume, or if it is not important to you, this is still a fantastic watch. It’s also a watch that will never go out of style.

Please leave your comments in the field below the gallery.

 

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