Drive de Cartier Collection adds Moon Phase and Extra Flat models

It’s been one year since Cartier announced its Drive de Cartier Collection and now the premium watchmaker took the opportunity to add moon phase and extra flat models in this line. Both these models were presented at the SIHH 2017 event currently held in Geneva.

Drive de Cartier Extra Flat

The Extra Flat model in this collection is slimmer than 7mm thickness, precisely 6.6mm. As per Cartier, the company has toned-down the thickness by nearly 40 percent than the original models. Powering this sleek machine is the manual-winding-in-house movement, Caliber 430 MC. This slim sleek model comes in two versions of rose gold and white gold cases that measure 39 x 39 mm. The white gold version is limited to 200 pieces on the first-come-first basis attached with a price tag of $16,700. there is no such precise limit for the rose gold model and can be bought for a price of $15,600.

This slim sleek model comes in two versions of rose gold and white gold cases that measure 39 x 39 mm. The white gold version is limited to 200 pieces on the first-come-first basis attached with a price tag of $16,700. there is no such precise limit for the rose gold model and can be bought for a price of $15,600.

Drive de Cartier Moon Phases

These Moon Phase models from Cartier is an elegant piece of device and features the moon phase display placed at the 6’oclock position. This is an “astronomic” indicator as described by the company, and requires one-day correction every 125 years.

The Moon Phase models are powered by automatic manufacture movement 1904-LU MC offering 48 hours of power reserve. The case for this models measure comes in steel and rose gold version and measures 40 x 41 mm in size. The steel version is priced for $7,500 while the rose gold version comes along with a price tag of $21,100.

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Check out the latest Girard-Perregaux 2017 collection

Girard-Perregaux seems to be having a wonderful start for 2017. At the 2017 SIHH event last week, the company unveiled some wonderful timepieces with baked-in technological innovations complemented by finished movements and sapphire back casings. So let us take a quick look what Girard-Perregaux had to show us.

1966 World Wide Time Control Collection

This unique timepiece from the 1966 collection comes with World Wide Time Control (WWTC)with dual-crown mounting on the either side of the dial. This 40mm 1966 WWTC  features an aesthetic easy-to-read dial representing time from 24 cities across the globe. The hour and minute hand are circled with a 24-hour numeric ring with black and white semi-circles representing the night and day.

Of the two crowns, placed at the 9 and 3’oclock place, one is used as an adjustment for the hour and minute hand settings while the other is used for positioning the reference city, at noon. this helps for the 24-hour disc to get synchronized automatically. The second-hand has been placed at the 6’oclock position separately.

Looking at the back of the watch, you will find an automatic in-house module that allows users to set the reference city in both the directions. The stainless steel version is priced for $12,300 while the rose-gold version is priced for $23,800 along with a leather strap.

Tri-Axial Planetarium

As seen in the above image, the dial features a tri-axial tourbillon, a moon-phase display, and a rotating globe for the day-night display making a complete turn in 24 hours.

Upon closely observing the globe, you will find a dedicated adjuster placed at the 2’oclock position for adjusting the moon-phase.

Cat’s Eye Celestial

The Cat’s eye Celestial is a women’s wrist watch that features a prominent moon-phase indicator at the center, 62 cut diamonds placed all across the dial RIM and marking the hours. You get 46 hours of power reserve with the manufacture’s movement. The Cat’s Eye Celestial is water-resistant with up to 30 meters. It is priced for $30,400 for an alligator leather strap and $45,300 for a rose-gold bracelet.

Laureto

As a mark of its 225th anniversary, last year Girard-Perregaux presented its Laureato collection for both – men and women. The collection offers nearly 30 references across four different version of gold, steel, two-tone steel and the last featuring titanium elements.

All these watches come with a octagonal-bezel adorned with diamond pieces and placed within the round dial. The entire Laureto collection is available in alligator leather strap and metal bracelet which comes along with an additional rubber strap and tools.

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Borealis Bull Shark | Watch Review

Borealis Bull Shark

So, we have another homage here. This time it is a touch different. The Borealis Bull Shark homages a watch that is not currently produced. That would be a Tudor Sub from 1954. Microbrands have their place in the watch world, and it is great when one of these brands produce something original and for a more affordable price than the big boys. That is not the case here. Tudor has had a resurgence the past few years and many have been clamoring for them to release their updated version of the classic sub. That has not happened as of yet. That is when a brand such as Borealis (and a few others) step in and produce something similar. So, yes, it is an homage watch, but man it is a well made and beautiful one.

Borealis Bull Shark Specifications:

• Case Size: 42mm x 50mm
• Screwed down crown
• Double Domed Sapphire Crystal with A/R coating inside
• Helium valve a 9 o’clock
• 120 clicks unidirectional glossy ceramic bezel with BGW9 lume applied to indexes
• Miyota 9015 Automatic Movement
• 316L Stainless Steel Case
• Lug Width: 22.00 mm
• Water Resistance: 2000 meters
• Viton gaskets on case back and tefzel gasket for glass
• Case height: 14.05 mm
• 316L Stainless steel bracelet with precision adjustable buckle
• Swiss Made BGW9 Superluminova applied to dial, watch hands and ceramic bezel
• Gilt hands (hours, minute, seconds)
• Screwed Case Back with engraved mermaid

Price: $475 USD

http://www.borealiswatch.com/store/diver-watches/#!/Borealis-Bull-Shark/c/16525119/offset=0&sort=normal

The Tudor model that the Borealis Bull Shark homages was 37mm. Of course this being 2017, Borealis chose to go with 42mm. I have seen many post that they would have preferred 40mm. For me, 42mm is my normal daily wearer. That is my sweet spot these days. I will go up to 46mm and down to 41, anything under that and it is just too small. There are many things to love with this model, and the case finishing is one of them. Fine satin brushed with a polished chamfer on the sides of the case allow for an elegant look over an all brushed tool diver. It is amazing what a little highlight like that does, subtle but it works. The screw down crown is solid and has very tight tolerances, yet it operates seamlessly. Borealis has really upped their game.

The star for me though is the dial. A beautiful black dial (green and blue models also available, with or without date) with gilt hands. Gilt means the hands have a thin coating of gold applied to them through the process known as gilding. I am not a gold wearer, but gold accents to a dial, especially to a black dial really make the watch stand out. Would it look okay with silver colored hands and markers? Sure. It wouldn’t have this classic look about it though. It really adds that luxury element to it, even though the Borealis Bull Shark is an affordable diver. Unfortunately, at the time of this review, the black dial is sold out in both date and no date options. I have not been told whether or not more will be produced, so if the black dial is what you want, you will have to search on the secondary market.

I love the high gloss ceramic bezel insert, especially the with red enamel in the triangle pip. This was a key element in the Tudor, and for some reason just makes the bezel, and whole watch pop just a little bit more. The bezel itself is easy to grasp and turn, and if you find yourself at the bottom of the ocean anytime soon in a dive chamber, well you have the microbrand dive watch regular, the helium escape valve.

I know I have been all sunshine and rainbows so far, but there are a few things I think could have improved the look of the Borealis Bull Shark, and here they are. One, the raised sapphire crystal. Anyone who reads my reviews knows I am not a big proponent of these. I just prefer a very slight dome, or a flat sapphire. On the subject of the crystal, a clear AR coating would have been much better here, as the blue/purple hue combined with the massive crystal really detract from the black dial. Whether in pictures or in person, the dial in most lighting does not come off as black because of this. The other issue I have is the use of the ratcheting clasp. Now, I love this clasp and appreciate it on most watches because of its ease to adjust on the fly. In this instance though, I feel it overpowers the bracelet and the watch and takes away some of that vintage appeal. A standard flip lock dive clasp would have kept that vintage feeling intact.

Lume

I normally take watches off bracelets these days, as I prefer straps. I did not with the Borealis Bull Shark because I felt this is more a bracelet watch and changing it would ruin the look. One sided screws are used to hold the links together, as such, sizing is a breeze. Anyone can size this bracelet in a matter of minutes, no need to go to a jeweler. I size almost all my own bracelets as I have all the tools, but some folks do not. Any jewelers or eyeglass screwdriver will do the trick here. I removed 4 links to get a perfect fit for my wrist. Size wise, it is perfect for me, and is very comfortable.

 7 1/2 inch wrist

One thing I would like Borealis to change is the case back. Not for any real reason besides the fact I would like to see something else. The Borealis Bull Shark uses the same mermaid as their very first release. Now, an argument can be made that it has become synonymous with Borealis and is their signature, and I get that. I guess I just would like to see something different; a bull shark engraving or stamping would have been cool.

Overall the Borealis Bull Shark is fantastic watch. I love it. It is easily the best watch they have produced to date, and I hear the upcoming Cascais might be even better. I guarantee most would not think this is a $475 watch when seeing it on the wrist. I do my best to take realistic photos and video, but trust me, in person this watch looks even better. It really is one that pictures do not do it justice. It is a solid watch with a solid movement and I can see why so many grabbed one of these in the preorder.

Borealis Bull Shark: Beautiful and well made.

More photos:

 

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Its New Geophysic True Second Tourbillon

At the recently held SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) 2017 event in Geneva, premium watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its latest model in the Geophysic True Second series. This is the first ever Universal Time watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre which comes fitted with a flying tourbillon right there at the 4’oclock position.

Upon having a close observation at the dial of ‘True Second’ models, you will find the center part of the dial representing continents in a stain-brushed finish and surround dark blue ocean are mounted on a revolving disc. Surrounding the center part is the list of countries distributed as per the geographies and a 24-hour numeral markings completing the circuit.

While the other appearances and technicals have been kept the same with the platinum 43.5mm case being water-resistant to 50 meters of depth.

Interchangeable and Adjustable Bracelet Mechanism for Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second

In addition to adding the Tourbillon functionality to the watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced their new interchangeable and adjustable bracelets with an option between the leather and steel versions.

These new bracelet options add a whole new level of different elegance, aesthetics, and charm to its models. The steel bracelet variant has got a premium finish with sating-brushed polished links. Moreover, its adjustable lets you adjust the length of the bracelet up to 5mm at the clasp, without the need for any kind of additional tool. Also, the bracelet features a unique lever system that allows the user to swap the strap at absolute ease and comfort without the need of any kind of tool.

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McDowell Time Delray | Watch Review

McDowell Time Delray

I admire new watch companies trying to make a footprint in a rather saturated industry. Every time I turn around someone else is trying to release a new watch on Kickstarter or other outlets. The problem regardless of the outlet utilized is incredibly hit or miss as far as making any sort of impact. Tired designs and lack of anything even remotely refreshing many times just leads me to want to close my eyes and only have interest with what the tried and true watch brands that have been around for years are doing. The Delray from McDowell Time definitely turned my head. While the design and specifications may not be ground-breaking, the combination of the great specs and reasonable price should certainly draw a ton of interest. The watch model comes in several different dial colors and a couple of case finishes so if the version that is the focus of this review doesn’t spark your fancy check out the others at their website.

McDowell Time Delray Spefications:

• Case – 316L Stainless Steel in Polished or PVD Black
• Case Width – 44MM
• Lug Width – 22MM
• Thickness – 11MM
• Lug to Lug – 51MM
• Crystal – Sapphire Crystal with Anti-Reflective Coating
• Movement – Seiko Epson YT57 Auto-Quartz (Kinetic)
• Hands – Classic Styling with C3 Super-LumiNova
• Water Resistance – 10ATM
• Warranty – 24 Months

Price: $295

https://www.mcdowelltime.com/collections/frontpage.
I feel mentioning the areas which could be improved upon with the watch is the easiest place to start. The straps and the display case back of the McDowell Time Delray are the two areas, at least in my humble opinion, needing some extra attention. I have a 7 ¾ inch wrist and have been quite spoiled over the years reviewing and enjoying hundreds of custom leather straps. So guess what? I have come to expect watch companies to concentrate heavily on the quality and sizing of their straps. Too many companies let the straps or bracelets become an afterthought and just simply throw something together. Not good, ever!!! The McDowell Time Delray straps are either for the most part too short or uncomfortable out of the box. The brown leather strap you will see in the photos, while made well, is extremely stiff and slightly short. After it breaks in a bit I’m sure it will be more comfortable but still would not consider keeping it on the Delray for any length of time. The nylon strap options are well made but guess what? Short. If you have a 7 ¼ inch wrist and under both the leather and nylon straps will probably be more than satisfactory. The NATO straps are going to work well for everyone if you like that sort of strap. The leather and nylon straps also taper. Some people may not care about taper but personally I’m not a fan. Give me 22/22mm straps for this watch with adequate length then we are talking.

I know the purpose of a display case back, but I I think I might have just seen too many these days. Besides the owner, who is wearing the watch most times, nobody else is going to see the case back. I can understand if you have a highly decorated top grade ETA or some sort of custom automatic that one might have the desire for a display back in order to show off the complexity and beauty of the movement to family and friends. While the Delray has a very cool Seiko Epson YT57 Auto-Quartz (Kinetic) is anyone really interested in seeing it? I would have much preferred some sort of highly stamped case back in this instance. Deal breakers? Of course not, just pet peeves of mine. I’ll throw a custom strap on the McDowell Time Delray at some point and don’t plan on showing off the case back.

So, what do I like about the McDowell Time Delray? Let’s start with the price point being an outstanding value in my book. What makes the watch a great value at $295 USD? A combination of the specifications and components make the watch a great value. As I mentioned previously the overall watch design is not ground-breaking, however, the Delray has the aesthetic appeal of a vintage watch combined with many modern components. McDowell Time has produced both a high polished and a black PVD coated case both made of stainless steel. I have to admit I wasn’t sure how I would feel about the wire style lugs as I was worried if the strap to lug would be seamless or if I’d end up catching one of the spring bars on something. The straps that come with the Delray have adequate width so no worries about how the strap to lug appears. The wire lug design allows for super easy strap changes and no worries about marking up the underside of the case. I like the 8mm signed crown as it has a different design than what is found on many watches. The crown is perfectly proportionate in size with the 44mm case, not too big and not too small.Sitting atop the case, regardless of the version, is a very clear sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The dial options are all very nice but the blue caught my eye. Nothing flashy just a very nice shade of blue. If you want bright lume the blue and black dials provide the most so please keep that in mind. The lume on all the models is C3 superluminova which is great feature that will glow for hours with an adequate charge so no worries about having this watch in darkened conditions. While I do not consider the McDowell Time Delray a watch where lume is necessary, I have to admit that I am quite pleased with the level of lume application.
The McDowell Time Delray is powered by a Seiko Epson YT57 Auto-Quartz (Kinetic). Not a fancy movement but nonetheless rather cool. I’m pleased with the choice compared to so many companies lately either using the Miyota 8215 or some form of an NH movement. While I am always going to prefer a Miyota 9015 or some sort of ETA or Sellita, I have nothing negative to say about this hybrid movement as it is a nice change of pace. The movement has also been highly accurate as I have not been able to notice any deviation at all. The only aspect of this movement that may be a turnoff for some is that it ticks like a standard quartz movement rather than having a smoother sweep found with automatic movements.

If you are looking for something a bit different you really can’t go wrong with the McDowell Time Delray. The watch provides an aesthetically appealing case design, great looking dial, sapphire crystal and a hybrid Seiko automatic-quartz movement. Also, strap options galore regardless of the shortcomings in that area no pun intended. Last but not least, it is assembled in the USA. I highly doubt you will be able to find a watch with this design and overall specifications at a better price. I am truly pleased with the overall great value that the McDowell Time Delray provides. Solid footprint in a highly saturated industry and I look forward to seeing what they come up with next.

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