Friday, 23 February 2018

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker | Hands on Watch Review

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

It is no secret that I am quite fond of Gruppo Gamma watches. I would say I have liked pretty much every model they have come out with and their newest model, the Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker, has that classic cushion shape that I am a pushover for. It also has an sandwich dial with Arabic numerals, another detail I greatly admire. The Peacemaker is a mechanical, something not seen from Gruppo in quite some time and also has a vintage boxed sapphire crystal. This is one attractive watch and with the exception of a few personal qualms, this model is another winner from the brand.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker Specifications:

  • Stainless steel, polished
  • Diameter 44 mm excluding crown and lugs
  • Length 52 mm lug-to-lug
  • Height 11.5 mm excluding 3 mm crystal
  • Lug width 24 mm
  • Weight 140 g with strap
  • Water resistance 200m
  • Vintage style box-shaped sapphire crystal with underside anti-reflective coating
  • Screw-in crown
  • Exhibition case back, stainless steel and sapphire
  • Movement Miyota 8N33
  • 21600 bph
  • Hand-wound
  • Accuracy between -20 to +40 s/ day
  • Power reserve 42 hrs
  • Strap & Accessories
  • Originale 2018, brown leather, length 125/75mm, width 24/24mm with buckle
  • Kampfschwimmer, dark brown leather, length 125/75mm, width 24/24mm  with buckle
  • Screwdriver for strap changes
  • Travel pouch

*Currently up for preorder at time of this publication (2/24/18). Price is $499 with a $100 Deposit. Slated delivery, end of April*

https://www.gruppogammawatches.com/collections.html#!/Peacemaker/c/25659140/offset=0&sort=normal

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

The Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker is very much the evolution to the Genesis case, the first model Gruppo Gamma ever produced, back in 2013. I admit, it can get confusing with different model names and designations such as MKIII and all and with all the watches I review, I lose track. I am sure collectors of the brand can keep better track than I. This design was originally intended to be apart of the Vanguard collection, but that never happened. Instead, they released it under a new collection, the Peacemaker. The 44mm cushion case shape is very familiar, but the standout to me is the dial. The matte dial is clean and uncluttered and the stencil cutouts are precise. Only and hour and minute hand are used here, no second hand or sub-dial, and there is a good reason for that, but more on that in a bit.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

Everything about the Peacemaker screams vintage, from the gilt (gold) hands to the vintage lume, the cushion case, and of course, a mechanical movement. While Gruppo Gamma takes inspiration from Rolex and Panerai’s of the past, they are always trying to add their spin to the lineup. This time though, they decided against an automatic movement and went with the Miyota 8N33. In the specifications above, I list the details of this movement, but as I said, there is no second hand on this watch. The reason for this is simple. The 8000 series from Miyota is not the most accurate nor smooth movement. The second hand is known for having what some call a stutter. I think you have probably seen my refer to that here before. Because of that, Gruppo decided to play to the movements strength and remove its weakness; hence, no second hand. Now, without it, it  is going to be difficult to track accuracy and of course exact time, and not everyone is going to love that. While we want our watches to be beautiful, we also expect them to be tools we use.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

The all high polished case of the Gruppo Gamma is something I can live without. That is one of my personal issues, as this super mirror polished case is not only a pain to photograph, but will also show any nick or scratch much more than a brushed finish. I would have preferred brushed with a polished bezel and crown, as an example. When it is brand new, the case is beautiful Gruppo really did a great job with polish. It is extreme for sure. The Peacemaker is just not for show either, as it is 200 meters water resistant with a massive screw down crown. I love this crown. Love. It is easy to grab, easy to unscrew and and easy to wind, just the way it should be. The crown is definitely over-sized, but I feel it fits with the design.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

As is the trend these days, microbrands like to include as much as possible with their watches and the Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker is no different. Two leather straps are included, both with buckles, along with the screwdriver to change them out and the newest travel case from GG. I love the travel case, so no complaints there, and both straps are of better than decent quality. I think sometimes we get spoiled and want a $100 leather strap with our watches, and of course, that is not always possible, especially with a watch that is selling for $500 to begin with. That said, I am someone who would appreciate one really excellent strap over two good straps. I find the minimal stitch dark brown strap to be my favorite and that is the one I wore during the review time. Here is pic on my 7 1/2 inch wrist. (More pics in the gallery at end of review)

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

You like lume you say? You are self professed lume junkie? Your wife yells at you at night to pull your shirt over your watch so she can get some sleep? I think we have all been there at one time or another. Well, get ready to be there again. The Peacemaker is a king when it comes to lume. This dial glows like crazy. Not only is it ridiculously bright, but it lasts pretty much through most of the night.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

Before I bring this review to a close, lets talk about that box sapphire crystal. I have always been vocal that I do not care for overly thick crystals, especially super dome crystals that some dive watches use. I find it gimmicky and hard to read the dial, and very hard to photograph. The vintage style box crystal, on the other hand, is just plain awesome. Yes, there is distortion towards then edges of the dial because of it, but there is just something about the look of this crystal that I can not get over. This crystal is not only protective the dial as it should be, but it adds to the overall aesthetic of the Peacemaker. So much so, that I do not know if I would like this watch a much if it just had a standard flat sapphire.

Gruppo Gamma Peacemaker

Simply, this is a another great model from Gruppo Gamma. I love the dial, the crystal, the cushion case and that badass large crown. Since I am someone that is not an accuracy nut, the lack of a second hand and the movement choice do not bother me at all, though I understand that it can be an issue for some. When it comes down to it, you are buying this more for the looks and build quality than a super accurate movement. But wait, have I not stated that I hate the Miyota 8200 series movements before? Yes, I have. If this was an automatic with a second hand, I would be stating the same thing. But its not, so it gets a pass here. The design is very vintage, the construction is modern, and as usual, fantastic. It wears great on my wrist and the large crown does not dig into the back of my hand, something that surprised me. I have no real digs that I can give the Peacemaker. It is a great looking piece and a lovely evolution to the Genesis model.

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Thursday, 22 February 2018

Stowa TO2 Flieger | Hands on Watch Review

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Simple. Clean. Refined.
That is the Stowa TO2 Flieger in a nutshell. Oh, did I forget beautiful? Yes, it is downright beautiful as well. For those that did not watch the video yet or maybe are unfamiliar with Stowa, let me just say, do not let the adjective simple mislead you. This is not one of those Alibaba “minimalist” Chinese $5 watches that new “brands” pop up with all the time and try and sell as affordable luxury watches. Nope, this is the real deal. This is a real watch, by a real watch company that makes outstanding watches. At first glance, this TO2 may look like just another pilot style watch but it is so much more. Well, okay, maybe not so much more as it doesn’t do anything other than display the time and date, but when you look at the dial, the crown, and the steel itself, there is a definite level of refinement going on. This is Stowa’s Modern Flieger as they dub it, and it is a fantastic watch in my opinion.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Stowa TO2 Flieger Specifications:

  • Case Diameter: 43mm
  • Height: 12.8mm (incl. sapphire crystal)
  • Strap width: 24mm
  • Lug-to-Lug size: 51mm
  • Water Resistance: up to 20ATM
  • Weight: 115 grams with leather strap
  • Case: Stainless steel, fine matt, ground by hand
  • Superluminova BWG9 (white)
  • Movement: ETA 2824-2, top version with blued screws

Price: $1336 USD (*Wait for pop up on Stowa website which offers 10% off for new customers*)

https://www.stowa.de/en/Flieger+TO2.htm

Stowa TO2 Flieger

When taking a look at the Stowa TO2 Flieger, at first glance, you can say, what makes this modern? That is part of the beauty of this model. The basic style is the same, but the execution is different. The lines are of the case are sharper, the dial is as uncluttered as you can possibly get unless they went with a sterile dial, the indices are not the same as your standard Flieger and the crown is different as well. It is Stowa’s interpretation or rather the evolution of the Flieger wristwatch. If the date is too much for you, you are in luck. The matte black dial is also offered without a date and for those that are wishing for a touch of color, the TO2 is available with color second hands, at no extra charge, just check their website for the options. Originally, I did ask for a green second hand, but I think there was some miscommunication on my part, and in the end, I am glad that the white was sent. It just has that no nonsense look about it and I like the the contrast of the stark white everything against the black dial.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Like you would expect from Stowa, the case finishing is fantastic. A superb brush finish all around the entire case and case back; no high polish anywhere. As referred to on their website, the Stowa TO2 Flieger is robust, it is solid, it is as well made as any watch in this price point, in my opinion. While the crown does not screw down, the TO2 is still water resistant to 200 meters. I doubt many are going to be taking this watch in the pool or ocean, but you absolutely could if you feel the need to.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Movement discussions, or more specifically arguments, will probably never end. Watchreport and myself, as well as other blogs and websites contribute to it as well. When it comes to ETA movements such as the 2824 Top Grade, there is not much to argue about. It is one step below chronometer grade and while some would prefer the 2892 at this price point, I have nothing bad to say about this movement choice at all. It is beautiful to look at through the case back and it has been accurate at -4 seconds a day, in a week of testing.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

Unfortunately, I do have one issue with the TO2.  The rubber strap that I was sent with this example, is a pretty generic rubber strap. The website states a leather strap is standard, but I was sent this rubber, and it is all I can go on. Whether or not it comes with a TO2 Flieger, it is still a Stowa strap and while it is natural rubber, it is just a catalog rubber strap that Stowa has branded for them, and it is also a strap that has to be cut, something I think many here know I absolutely despise. From taking a look online, most of the pictures I see do show it on this rubber strap. A few show it on a black padded rubber, I am assuming that is the rubber they allude to on the website. I did not wear it on the rubber strap, I wore it on a leather of my own, but you can see below what it would look like on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

The lume, as expected, is fantastic. I have not personally seen a Stowa with bad lume and just looking at the hands and indices when it first arrived, I had a feeling it was going to glow well. I was not disappointed. The BGW9 lume produces that ice blue color that looks great on this black dial in the dark.

Stowa TO2 Flieger

I think it would be fair to say that I love the Stowa TO2, or at least, greatly admire it. Yes, I do dog on the strap, as it is a part of the package and at $1300, I expect better. When I say I expect better, it is just because it is generic. As far as comfort and feel, there are no issues. Most would probably feel it is a great strap, but I know better and while this watch offers everything else I think you can want at its price point, the strap was just a let down to me. The design and build quality are there when it comes to the case, dial and movement, and those are really what most will be concentrating on. This interpretation of the Flieger is my favorite that I have seen in person so far, and is another great model from Stowa. Flieger or Pilot watches have never been my go to or first choice, but I can definitely see myself wearing this version on a daily basis and having no qualms about it…just on a different strap is all.

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