Friday, 5 August 2016

DELTAt Sora WWII | Watch Review

DELTAt Sora WWII

Deltat Sora WWII

DELTAt Sora WWII Specifications:

44mm x 52mm stainless brushed case
10.8mm thick
22mm lug width
Seiko Automatic Movement Cal. NH35
10mm diameter pumpkin shaped crown
Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating
Water Resistant: 200m/660ft (20ATM) Water Resistant
Tool-Less-strap-changing system
One set of WWII style genuine leather straps
One set of 90/130mm crazy horse genuine leather straps with removable base
Military Style Nylon Strap

Price $450 USD

http://www.deltatwatch.com/

Deltat Sora WWII

Sometimes you just never know what to expect with a watch, especially from a brand that is new on the scene. While my colleague Michael Wolfe reviewed the NBS model about 2 months ago, I never saw that one personally. He said while it was extreme and funky, it was crazy well built. That was also their top model at about $1100, so I was not sure how a $450 model from DELTAt would stack up. Another crazy thing was the social media attention it received. Every time I posted a photo on Instagram or Facebook, the likes and comments poured in. I am not sure if it is because of the traditional and sterile look it has going, or just pilot watches are gaining more traction than dive watches, but people really seem to like this model.

Deltat Sora WWII

And while many have not had this watch in hand, their enthusiasm is well warranted. Is the DELTAt Sora WWII reinventing the wheel when it comes to watches? Nope. Does it have any special functions over other pilot watches out on the market? Nope. Does it have an expensive movement? Not at all. So what is it that has people jonesing for this watch when we post about it? It is a just a damn good looking watch that is well built and under $500. That usually does it. It is an homage for sure. It is from a new brand that seemed to only pop up in the past year. There are not many talking about the brand either, and if they are, it seems to be negative due to the NBS model, because while it is very well constructed, the design and size is just not for everybody. The Sora is different. It is traditional, it has a clean dial, easy to read numbers, good lume and a huge crown that anyone should be able to manipulate easily.

Deltat Sora WWII

The interesting thing to me, is that I can not find an issue with the Sora. It is a well built watch, the brush finishing is on par for a watch of this price range, the crown is obviously easy to grasp and screws securely into the case. It is a clean dial, actually it is a sterile dial with with your typical Flieger style numbers and markers. The crown, while large does not dig into the wrist as I initially expected, and does not have any sharp edges either.

Deltat Sora WWII

The lume is the one area I will knock it, as it does glow, just not as bright. It gets the job done though. It is probably weaker because of the use of a vintage lume paint, as opposed to the much stronger C3 superluminova. I will say for the most part, it is not blotchy and is mostly evenly applied.

Deltat Sora WWII

The DELTAt Sora WWII comes in a big pelican style box, which is usually reserved for dive style watches. I found this odd, but hey, maybe they got a good deal on these and decided to use them for all their watches. The crazy horse brown leather strap, sans the bund attachment, is fantastic. It is comfortable and a decent length, which is good news for those with large wrists. Also included is a nylon nato style strap and a black leather nato with a roller style buckle. Both of the leather straps have quick change pins as well, making switching straps a breeze. You can see both of these including the case in the Youtube video above.

Deltat Sora WWII

The case back is a simple etching, but does not have any rough edges to annoy you while it sits on your wrist, and the etching goes along with the theme of the watch. One of the things I am having trouble with , is finding actual negatives to point out on this model. Frankly, the Sora WWII just doesn’t have many faults, and that is a rarity in today’s micro brand world.

Deltat Sora WWII

As I said at the beginning, DELTAt is not reinventing the wheel here. This style has been done many times before. It is a great look though, so I can understand why. Most companies that homage this style, seem to use the diamond style crown, which I have never been a big fan of . While the large pumpkin crown might be too “in your face” for some, I personally love it. The NH35,  while a lower beat than the Miyota 9015, is still a dependable automatic movement, and at this point, keeping cost down as we have all seen the Miyota 9100 series has skyrocketed in price and currently has a 6 month wait list. You can disagree with me and not like the style, but if you do like it, I think the DELTAt is a solid choice for this style of watch. As far as the company and how long they will be around? That is something that I can not answer. But they have at least proven, to me, that they can build a solid, good looking watch in a traditional style.

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Borealis Seafarer II | Video Review

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Ventus Black Kite | Video Review

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Straton Vintage Driver | Video Review

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Wednesday, 3 August 2016

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph | Watch Review

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph Specifications:

42mm 316L stainless steel case

12mm thin

Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Custom punched case back

Seiko VK63 Meca-quartz movement

Embossed screw down crown

100 meter water resistance

Price $329 USD

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

It is always a personal pleasure to discuss a new release from a micro-brand watch company. I even have a feeling of greater satisfaction when the watch company is based right here in the United States. The Mercer Watch Company is based in New Jersey. The philosophy of the company focuses on producing a quality watch that isn’t equal a paycheck. If you would like to read more about the history of the company please click on the following link: http://www.mercerwatch.com/. Mercer released the Brigadier model not long ago which consisted of a custom case design and tons of quality specifications. Absolutely gorgeous watch!!! The original Brigadier, however, was a simple three hand automatic. So what about those individuals that clamor for chronographs or watches with additional complications? Never fear as Mercer decided to release a chronograph version of the Brigadier featuring the same great custom case and some other great specifications while keeping the cost at a minimum. The Brigadier Chronograph is available in four different variations retailing at an incredible $329 USD. $329 USD???? So what corners did they cut? Well none to put it simply as you will see as we move along in the review.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

Holy Mecha-Quartz goodness! Yep, the Brigadier Chronograph houses a fantastic Seiko VK63 mecha-quartz movement. Sure, Mercer could have opted for an automatic chronograph movement but that option wouldn’t have fallen in line with the company philosophy as an automatic chronograph couldn’t be released with the custom case at $329. Besides costs, sourcing Miyota or Swiss automatic chronograph movements can be quite challenging or present lengthy delays in production. So what do I think about this Seiko VK63? Out of all the quartz chronograph movements on the market currently the Seiko VK63 might be my personal favorite. I will share a little secret. I prefer automatic movements. Well, actually, that is no secret for those that know me or have followed my reviews. However, I’m not an automatic movement snob and a quality quartz movement can find a home in my personal collection.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

Knowing this little bit of information about me, one of my favorite all time standard (non in-house) chronograph movements is the Valjoux 7750 which happens to be an incredibly expensive movement. One of the features I love about the Valjoux 7750 is the chronograph instant zero reset. Guess what? The Seiko VK63 has the instant zero reset. The reset is accomplished by a mechanical component within the movement, thus the meca-quartz designation. Essentially, the chronograph second hand snaps back to zero when reset rather than cycling around the dial like many quartz chronographs. What is one of the worries about quartz movements?   A personal worry for me is battery drain and the resulting battery changes. Without the instant zero reset, the additional battery drain resulting from cycling the chronograph second hand would always be present in the back of my mind. Obviously, not an issue with the Seiko VK63. Kudos to Mercer for selecting an outstanding movement for the Brigadier Chronograph.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

Ok, I may have gotten carried away on the movement. The Brigadier Chronograph is so much more than just the movement. As I alluded to earlier, this variation of the Brigadier utilizes the same great custom designed case as the original Brigadier. Mercer didn’t just pick a case off the shelf and stick a movement in it and release the product to consumers. Seriously, how often have any of us seen a watch with a custom designed case for less than $1000?  I absolutely love the lug design of the Brigadier. The lugs have a great curve and conform to the wrist quite nicely, but I really like how the lug ends almost level out or at least that is how they appear to me which provide great symmetry on the wrist. Is there more to like about the case than the design? Certainly. So many chronographs use standard round function pushers, however, the Brigadier has rectangular chronograph functions pushers which in my opinion add to the dressy nature of the case. The function pushers also serve as crown protectors for the awesome onion style crown which is another atypical feature of many dress chronographs. I really love the choice of the star logo etched into the crown face which corresponds perfectly with the model name. The crown is also screwed down which adds to an adequate level of water resistance for a dress chronograph. Are you going to dive with this watch? Of course not, but you also will not have to be fearful of getting it wet.Mercer Brigadier ChronographThe movement and case design provide so much to discuss about the Brigadier Chronograph and I probably could have rambled on about those aspects. However, I haven’t yet mentioned the domed sapphire crystal, the absolutely stunning dial, cool case back and nice strap. If I were to modify anything about the Brigadier in general one area would be the crystal and the other would be the strap. Don’t get me wrong the use of sapphire is exactly what everyone should want, however, I am not a fan of domed crystals regardless of the composition. The doming distorts the dial from certain angles which is my biggest beef. The doming can also make a watch difficult to photograph. When a watch has such a gorgeous dial a nice flat sapphire would just be more aesthetically pleasing.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

I do not want to keep harping on the $329 price point, but I have already addressed the great movement, custom case, sapphire crystal but then when you take a close look at the dial, oh my! The level of detail is truly fantastic from the applied hour markers to the various textures and levels on the dial. I hope my photos and the video do the dial justice, if not, you may just have to pick one up to truly gain the appreciation I have for the dial. For you lume fanatics out there that just have to have some sort of lume on a watch never fear. There is a touch of lume on the handset only which is perfectly appropriate for a dress chronograph.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

The last few features I will cover briefly are the highly detailed case back and the crocodile-embossed leather strap. I know nobody sees the case back and many times only the wearer knows what it looks like unless you are an all knowing watch god. I always find a personal level of satisfaction owning a watch with a highly detailed case back. The high detail of the Brigadier Chronograph case back add to the overall sophistication of the watch. I absolutely love the militaristic theme and couldn’t imagine a more perfect design. Finishing off the Brigadier is a very nice leather strap. The quality of the strap is not in question. The style and material are a perfect compliment to the watch, however, the short strap syndrome has reared its ugly head once again. If companies are not going to offer longer length straps for those with larger wrists as standard, then further research needs to be conducted on re-positioning the sizing holes in order to more comfortably accommodate the larger wrist. Adding sizing holes and moving them closer to the tail of the strap can make a world of difference.

Mercer Brigadier Chronograph

I also want to applaud the Mercer Watch Company for producing such a high quality watch at such an affordable price. The Brigadier Chronograph comes packed with tons of quality specifications ranging from the great mecha-quartz movement, custom case, sapphire crystal, gorgeous detailed dial and so on. If Mercer keeps producing quality watches at this sort of price point, I can see a long future in the watch making business. I highly recommend checking out this particular watch model. I would like to thank the Mercer Watch Company for working with WatchReport on this review. I would like to thank each of you for reading. Please check out the YouTube video as well.

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Monday, 1 August 2016