Tuesday, 9 August 2016

Zelos Hammerhead | Watch Review

Zelos Hammerhead

Zelos Hammerhead

 

Zelos HammerHead Specifications

  •  316L Stainless Steel
  • Ceramic Bezel Insert
  • 44mm case diameter
  • 49mm lug to lug
  • 17mm height including domed sapphire crystal
  • 22mm lug width
  • 1000m water resistant
  • Seiko NH35 automatic movement

Pre-order price $399-$459 USD base models (up to $300 higher after pre-order)

Hammerhead 1000m Diver Preorder

Zelos Hammerhead

Micro-brand dive watches these days can sometimes be a dime a dozen in appearance. Simply put outside of the branding many times there just isn’t much difference or uniqueness. Now, just because many dive watches utilize the same type of designs watch guys see every day doesn’t mean those micro-brand dive watches are bad, rather they are sometimes just a bit stale. How many of you desire something that doesn’t look like every other dive watch on the market? I know I’m constantly looking for something even just slightly different. It is always refreshing and a pleasure to discuss a new release from a micro-brand watch company especially when it doesn’t look like every other watch or dive style watch on the market. Some of my colleagues have had numerous opportunities to see first-hand the quality coming out of Zelos Watches. For me, until now I was just like everyone else reading our articles and getting a very good overall impression of the brand.

Zelos Hammerhead

Zelos is releasing a new model named the Hammerhead which is currently available at a great pre-order price of $399 USD for stainless and $459 USD bronze. These prices are for the base dial models only. The Hammerhead model falls in line with what I was mentioning at the very beginning as it presents a rather unique case design while ensuring consumers will receive similar great specifications found on many micro-brand dive watches. Everyone needs to keep in mind the prices are going to be significantly higher at some point. The pre-order price for any of the models is outstanding especially the bronze models. Models with the meteorite dials are priced slightly higher during the pre-order phase. I say right now all are a great value which I’m certain you will feel the same after reading and watching my video on one of the base model PROTOTYPES.

Zelos Hammerhead

I’ve reviewed prototypes before and normally it is very clear I’m looking at a prototype. Outside of the case blemishes and sterile case back I almost wouldn’t think I was looking at a prototype if I hadn’t been told. The owner of Zelos advised me up front that the areas that will see marked improvement once the production models are released are that the bezel will be much more firm, the lume will be improved (oh my), buckle difference and some other minor non-watch related extras.

Zelos Hammerhead

Let’s start out by looking at the case. See anything different? I sure do. It isn’t the typical off the shelf cookie cutter type case!  Thank goodness and how refreshing. The case reminds me somewhat of a turtle shell with all the different angles and variations in color/finishing. The closest I’ve seen on the market to a case with this style of an angular design are certain models release by VDB. The big differences are the Zelos is quite comfortable and will not break the bank. Typically, I’m not a fan of high polished cases or components at all. Nothing marks up quicker than a high polished case and unless you are really good at removing the blemish, you are just stuck with them. However, the case being split 50/50 high polished/brushed, has a certain aesthetic appeal, don’t you think?

Zelos Hammerhead

I’ve had a few people ask about the crown placement and the snub lugs in relation to the overall comfort when wearing the watch. I will tell you exactly what I have told anyone that has asked about those aspects. The watch is extremely comfortable, period. The crown is extremely over-sized and placement anywhere else on the case might cause for some wrist discomfort. The current position sits perfectly around the break of the wrist and it looks outstanding regardless. So what about the snub lugs? If you like lugs that hang over the edge of the wrist, then simply put you will probably not like the Hammerhead. The design allows for the watch to sit as it should on the flat surface of your wrist. Of course, I have a 7 ¾ inch wrist so results may vary based on wrist size. Last but not least, sitting atop the case is a nice thick bezel. I’m not going to spend much time at all on the bezel outside of noting two specific areas. The thickness will allow for easy grasping and rotation. It is also slathered with lume for all those lume junkies out there. Quite simply a solid bezel as it is and once it is tightened up  come production models, thumbs up!

Zelos Hammerhead

I’ve said it before and I will say it again, I do not like domed sapphire crystals. Personal preference as some may really like them. I don’t like them just because taking photographs and videos can be troublesome, but also because they distort the dial at certain angles. I guess they can provide some justice for smaller dials making them not appear so small, so maybe that is an added benefit. I would just simply prefer a plain flat sapphire crystal on almost any watch.

Zelos Hammerhead

Do you want some lume? Well, never fear the Hammerhead prototype is loaded with it. The lume on the crown face is cool though somewhat gimmicky. The C3 Superluminova and BGW9 lume on the dial is absolutely stunning even on the prototype. These luminous areas are supposed to be improved by the time the production models land, OH MY!! Besides the slathering of lume all over the dial and bezel which I have to admit I’m really drawn to this time, I am pleased with the clean uncluttered dial as only the Zelos logo and water resistance are present. All the dial options are going to look fantastic especially the meteorite dials. I hope to see one of those in person.

Zelos Hammerhead

Powering the Hammerhead is the Seiko NH35 automatic movement. The Seiko NH35 has become quite a popular movement over the last few years especially with the shortage and wait time for obtaining the even more popular Miyota 9015. While I prefer the Miyota 9015, I have found the NH35 to be rather reliable even though I like the smoother sweep of the Miyota 9015 or a nice Swiss automatic. The NH35 also helps in keeping the overall cost down for consumers so we all just need to deal with the fact we are going to see this movement used more and more going forward.

Zelos Hammerhead

The last few features I will cover briefly are the bracelet and the outstanding canvas strap. Who are the bracelet guys? Can’t see your hands but I’m not much of a bracelet guy any longer personally. Outside of the outstanding bracelets found on Breitling and certain Fortis watches the ratcheting clasp bracelet might be the best. The ratcheting micro-adjustments quite simply makes it super easy to obtain that precise fit on the wrist, as well as, allowing for slight adjustments without having to use a tool. Kudos on the bracelet Zelos! Who are the strap guys? Can’t see your hands either…..LOL. Some of you that know me understand my love for custom straps. I have owned a wide variety of custom straps over the years ranging from $50 to $300 which includes some canvas straps. The canvas strap provided with the Hammerhead prototype rivals any canvas strap I have ever owned. I’m not saying it is better but strap guys will not be one bit disappointed. Top quality feel, leather backed and great stitch work are a few of the quality features you will get with the provided canvas strap. I’m not certain if the bronze models will have a bracelet option or not but my guess would be no and that those will come with just a rubber and canvas strap. Of course, if you are not a bracelet or canvas strap fan just slap a 22mm Isofrane dive strap on the Hammerhead and off you go. The Hammerhead is going to be an outstanding strap watch so change them out constantly.

Zelos Hammerhead

First time I have ever laid eyes on a Zelos watch up close and personal and I want to applaud Zelos for producing such a high quality watch at such an affordable price. Outstanding prototype!! The Hammerhead will be packed with tons of quality specifications ranging from the solid Seiko automatic movement, unique case design, sapphire crystal, great looking dial options, massive amounts of lume and so on. If Zelos keeps producing quality watches at this sort of price point, they will be a go to micro-brand watch company for years to come. I highly recommend checking out this particular watch model. I would like to thank the Zelos Watches for providing their precious prototype.

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Monday, 8 August 2016

AVI-8 Hawker Hunter Solar | Watch Review

AVI-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

Specifications:

COLLECTION: HAWKER HUNTER
MODEL: AV-4039-03
MOVEMENT: Japan Solar Power Reserve Movement with 3 Hands & Date
CASE: Stainless Steel
CASE SIZE (mm): 44 X 55
CASE THICKNESS (mm): 13
CASE SHAPE: Rectangular
CASE COLOUR: Stainless Steel
DIAL COLOUR: Black
BAND: Genuine Leather Strap
BAND COLOUR: Dark Green
BUCKLE: Strap Buckle
BAND WIDTH (mm): 22
WATER RESISTANCE: 5ATM
WATCH WEIGHT (g): 100
WARRANTY: 2 Years International

Price (On AVI-8 website and Amazon, $265 USD

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

AVI-8 is a brand that has been covered here a few times by other reviewers, but this is my first time with one of their models. While I can honestly say most of their styles are not my cup of joe, I figured it was time I saw what this budgetary pilot watch company was all about. This model, the Hawker Hunter Solar, is very similar, if not identical to other Hawker Hunter models, especially when it comes to the case, but with a different movement and dial. A 44mm by 55mm square case that wears large but yet is surprisingly lightweight, comes in two different dial options and two case options (pvd and brushed stainless.)

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

So, lets get to some of the basics. Style is subjective, so I will not harp on that I am not personally in love with it. As far as materials and quality, I will say for the price point, the Hawker Hunter is a pretty decent value. The PVD coating is nicely applied, and the steel is brushed underneath. The crown does not screw down, as one would expect from a watch with a 5atm (50 meters) water resistance rating. And while on that subject, let me veer off a bit. Why is it that companies do not put screw down crowns and implement 100 meters of water resistance into watches that are not dive or sport watches? Yes, I understand that you are not going to take this watch into the pool or ocean, but should I really have to worry about my almost $300 watch getting fogged up in the rain or while washing dishes etc? Okay, mini rant over.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

Back to the Hawker Hunter Solar. Dial work is one thing I can say that AVI-8 always gets right. Even on their less detailed models, the dials at least have a nice dial texture to them. This version has a lot going on when you start to look at it, and some of it might be overkill like the large plane on the dial. But overall I really like the look of this dial and feel it sets it apart from your standard aviation style watch, which is what AVI-8 seems to strive for.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

The hands are quite large and easy to read, as are the numbers and markers on the dial. One thing I did notice though, is how small the actual date readout is. This is due more to the the fact of how they bordered it, and less about the size of the date wheel. One thing I am still not sure of, is what the color of the dial is. In certain light it looks all black, in some the center dial looks grey and other times green. This was whether I was outside, inside in regular light, or in my light tent in the studio. (AVI-8 also lists the leather strap as green too, which it is clearly not).

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

What is the solar movement you ask? I am not sure. I know, that sounds bad for a reviewer, but the website does not list a specific manufacturer, and an email into the company was not answered at the time of this writing. I am going to imagine it is either a Seiko or Miyota but I could be wrong. Covering the movement is a pretty standard case back in polished stainless steel. Seems they did not give the case back the same pvd coating, maybe for fear of scratching or rubbing off after extensive wear.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

At $265 I never expect anything other than a mineral crystal, which is what is being used on these models. Then I started to think, if not using a sapphire crystal, what is setting this watch apart or making it stand out? It is a solar movement, and does have some intricate dial work, but I think a better water resistance rating and a sapphire would really set this watch apart. AVI-8 has only used a sapphire crystal twice. Once on an exclusive model for a blogger collaboration, and the other for their new bronze that is currently on their website, that has a price tag of $800.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

It might sound like I am being harsh or negative, but I am not. The competition is stiff out there in the watch world, and I am just being as real as I can. When it comes to lume application, I was not disappointed as it is decently bright and long lasting, but is somewhat blotchy and unevenly applied.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

I will say the leather strap is quite nice and fits my 7 1/2 inch wrist comfortably. It is a damn good looking strap as well, with its distressed brown color.

Avi-8 Hawker Hunter Solar

Obviously, the AVI-8 Hawker Hunter Solar is not the watch for me, and I might have been critical about it here, but that is only because I feel they have a lot of potential. They seem to be somewhat stuck between a budget fashion brand and an enthusiasts brand. They offer both automatic and quartz on their website and prices range from about $150 to now $800. This one at $265 will not break the bank and if you like the square style aviation watches, this is an affordable route to go. A sapphire crystal and an automatic movement would make it even better, even if they had to raise the price another $50-$75. But that extra money might just put it out of reach for some as well, so I do get what they are trying to do. One thing I know for sure, AVI-8 has quite the following, so they are doing some things right. While researching this model more, I noticed on the website they are offering 20% off if you sign up for their newsletter. That would bring this model down to about  $213, which would definitely make it a much better value.

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Friday, 5 August 2016

DELTAt Sora WWII | Watch Review

DELTAt Sora WWII

Deltat Sora WWII

DELTAt Sora WWII Specifications:

44mm x 52mm stainless brushed case
10.8mm thick
22mm lug width
Seiko Automatic Movement Cal. NH35
10mm diameter pumpkin shaped crown
Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflection coating
Water Resistant: 200m/660ft (20ATM) Water Resistant
Tool-Less-strap-changing system
One set of WWII style genuine leather straps
One set of 90/130mm crazy horse genuine leather straps with removable base
Military Style Nylon Strap

Price $450 USD

http://www.deltatwatch.com/

Deltat Sora WWII

Sometimes you just never know what to expect with a watch, especially from a brand that is new on the scene. While my colleague Michael Wolfe reviewed the NBS model about 2 months ago, I never saw that one personally. He said while it was extreme and funky, it was crazy well built. That was also their top model at about $1100, so I was not sure how a $450 model from DELTAt would stack up. Another crazy thing was the social media attention it received. Every time I posted a photo on Instagram or Facebook, the likes and comments poured in. I am not sure if it is because of the traditional and sterile look it has going, or just pilot watches are gaining more traction than dive watches, but people really seem to like this model.

Deltat Sora WWII

And while many have not had this watch in hand, their enthusiasm is well warranted. Is the DELTAt Sora WWII reinventing the wheel when it comes to watches? Nope. Does it have any special functions over other pilot watches out on the market? Nope. Does it have an expensive movement? Not at all. So what is it that has people jonesing for this watch when we post about it? It is a just a damn good looking watch that is well built and under $500. That usually does it. It is an homage for sure. It is from a new brand that seemed to only pop up in the past year. There are not many talking about the brand either, and if they are, it seems to be negative due to the NBS model, because while it is very well constructed, the design and size is just not for everybody. The Sora is different. It is traditional, it has a clean dial, easy to read numbers, good lume and a huge crown that anyone should be able to manipulate easily.

Deltat Sora WWII

The interesting thing to me, is that I can not find an issue with the Sora. It is a well built watch, the brush finishing is on par for a watch of this price range, the crown is obviously easy to grasp and screws securely into the case. It is a clean dial, actually it is a sterile dial with with your typical Flieger style numbers and markers. The crown, while large does not dig into the wrist as I initially expected, and does not have any sharp edges either.

Deltat Sora WWII

The lume is the one area I will knock it, as it does glow, just not as bright. It gets the job done though. It is probably weaker because of the use of a vintage lume paint, as opposed to the much stronger C3 superluminova. I will say for the most part, it is not blotchy and is mostly evenly applied.

Deltat Sora WWII

The DELTAt Sora WWII comes in a big pelican style box, which is usually reserved for dive style watches. I found this odd, but hey, maybe they got a good deal on these and decided to use them for all their watches. The crazy horse brown leather strap, sans the bund attachment, is fantastic. It is comfortable and a decent length, which is good news for those with large wrists. Also included is a nylon nato style strap and a black leather nato with a roller style buckle. Both of the leather straps have quick change pins as well, making switching straps a breeze. You can see both of these including the case in the Youtube video above.

Deltat Sora WWII

The case back is a simple etching, but does not have any rough edges to annoy you while it sits on your wrist, and the etching goes along with the theme of the watch. One of the things I am having trouble with , is finding actual negatives to point out on this model. Frankly, the Sora WWII just doesn’t have many faults, and that is a rarity in today’s micro brand world.

Deltat Sora WWII

As I said at the beginning, DELTAt is not reinventing the wheel here. This style has been done many times before. It is a great look though, so I can understand why. Most companies that homage this style, seem to use the diamond style crown, which I have never been a big fan of . While the large pumpkin crown might be too “in your face” for some, I personally love it. The NH35,  while a lower beat than the Miyota 9015, is still a dependable automatic movement, and at this point, keeping cost down as we have all seen the Miyota 9100 series has skyrocketed in price and currently has a 6 month wait list. You can disagree with me and not like the style, but if you do like it, I think the DELTAt is a solid choice for this style of watch. As far as the company and how long they will be around? That is something that I can not answer. But they have at least proven, to me, that they can build a solid, good looking watch in a traditional style.

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Borealis Seafarer II | Video Review

Borealis Seafarer II

 

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