Favre Leuba Sky Chief | Watch Review

Favre Leuba Sky Chief

 

The Favre Leuba Sky Chief is another model from the recently revived brand. A few months ago I reviewed the Raider Deep Blue, a dive watch from Favre, this time we take a look at a more casual/dress piece, the Sky Chief. When I hear the name Sky Chief I immediately think of a pilot style watch, though this model looks nothing like any pilot watch I have ever seen. From the website:  “I am minimalistic. Yet magnetic. I dominate the game with unmistakable and timeless aesthetics. With different layers and facets. I am a statement on your wrist. I am the Sky Chief Date by Favre-Leuba”. That does not really give me a better understanding of what this watch really is, but one thing I know, it is very well made with a gorgeous sunryay dial and one hell of a premium leather strap.

Favre Leuba Sky Chief Spefications:

• 43mm wide case
• 50mm lug to lug
• 22mm lug width
• 12.5mm thick
• Sapphire Crystal
• ETA 2824 Automatic Movement
• 100  Meters Water Resistant
• Brown Leather Strap

Retail Price: $2150 USD

http://favre-leuba.com/collection/chief/sky-chief-date/

While I do not know whether to classify this as a dress watch, dress sport, or just an all around deal, one thing is for sure, the Favre Leuba Sky Chief is pure class. It is never my intention to sell a watch, that is for the company to do. I state my opinion and give the facts as I know them. This would be a dress watch for me, though I would put it on more of an upscale strap, say an alligator or crocodile. At 43mm, I know most would not want to wear this as a dress watch, as the purists in the watch world believe a true dress watch should not be over 40mm. All well and good. This is a style of watch that while I find very attractive, would not be on my wrist daily. I am more of a dive/field style watch, as that is just what I gravitate towards. I can not deny how beautiful this watch is though, and how well made it is.

As you can see in the photos, the case is comprised of brushed and polished finishes and has a similar case design to the rest of the Favre Leuba line up. They all share similar DNA, though this model is more rounded than the divers and other models they have. The screw down crown is similar as well and has the same logo on top. The logo is somewhat simple and understated and as it should be; the Favre Leuba Sky Chief is not over branded at all, as a matter of fact, the model name is not printed on the dial at all. What is present on the dial is the date window at the 6, my favorite spot for a date. It is unobtrusive and does not screw up the symmetry of the markers or look like a wart on the dial in a weird out of place spot as so many do.

Now of course, I do not find everything to be perfect and I have one “glaring” issue with the Favre Leuba Sky Chief: The Crystal. Of course at this price, you get a sapphire crystal. I have no idea where these sapphire crystals are sourced and there are many grades of sapphire that can be had these days. I have mentioned this many times before, but it seems like the crystal is almost the last thing some companies think about when it comes to designing their watch. In this instance, the slightly domed sapphire is ultra reflective, and it takes away from seeing that beautiful dial. I do not know if a higher grade of crystal should have been used, like museum grade sapphire, or if a better AR coating is needed, but hopefully in future production of this model they upgrade it to something more suiting to a watch such as this.

Strong lume is not something to expect out of a watch such like this, and that would be the case here. To be frank, lume these days is more of a gimmick than anything, I mean if you have a cable or DVR box it has the time on it, you have a huge display in your car with the time on it, and of course your cell phone. I think we all use our lumed watches to check the time in the movie theater and that is about it. That all said, the Favre Leuba Sky Chief has better lume then I expected, but do not expect to wake up 4 hours after you went to be and be able to read the time at a glance, not going to happen.

In my opinion, when you start getting into the $2000 range of watches, details are what is important and I think overall the Favre Leuba Sky Chief has them covered. The case is well machined and finished, the case back while the same as the last model I reviewed is nicely engraved, crown action is smooth and it comes powered by the very reliable Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement. Where many brands seem to fall short is the strap and buckle supplied with watch. When you are looking at a $500 watch, you know some things are going to be straight catalog, if not all. And that is fine, because it is $500. When you get into this price range, you need to step it up. Favre Leuba did just that. A rich dark brown padded leather strap is that is lightly distressed and just exuding quality. Topping it off is a custom machined buckle, not the flimsy two cent thumbnail buckle some companies try to pawn off.

While the Favre Leuba Sky Chief would not be my first pick for a new watch, as the style is not what I look for, I understand its appeal. It is a beautiful watch that for the most part is manufactured and finished as a watch at this price should be. Other than the crystal issue I pointed out, I can not find a flaw with this watch. I know some might say it is too expensive, but it really is not. Compare it with other like watches in this category and I think it will hold up just fine. I think sometimes we say things are overpriced just because we would all want things to be cheaper, and unfortunately that is not how it works. Favre Leuba might be the second watch brand in existence in name only at this point, I think the new company is doing the name proud. I would like to see them branch out to newer case designs though at some point, though I get the appeal of making models that resemble the heritage ones of the past. Hopefully we will see some higher grade movements used going forward as well, but I think Favre Leuba is on the right track so far. Bringing a company back from the dead with so much history is no easy task, but l hope they stay around for another 100 years.

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Meet the New and Elegant Breitling Chronoliner B04 Boutique Edition

Swiss watchmaker Breitling, known for its precision-made chronometers has recently unveiled its new stylish and elegant Breitling Chronoliner B04 Boutique Edition Watches that marks an aura of sheer elegance and styling.

With a diameter of 46mm, this Breitling Chronoliner model might seem too huge to don your wrists. However, in order to compensate for this, Breitling offers short lugs to its watches which gives its watches a bit toned-up look.

The dial of the Breitling Chronoliner Boutique has got some distinct features to it with the rotating bezels of the watch being made of scratch resistant blue ceramic and the other major difference is the comes with a 24-hour time-zone marking instead of the 12-hour ones.

The other distinct feature the watch offers is a GMT compilation with a 24-hour hand (red-marked) with a direct read-out on the outer scale. The chronograph sub-dials have been placed at the 3-69 o’clock position and the date window has been very gently integrated between the 4 and 5 hours clock positions.

The Breitling Chronoliner Boutique Edition is a limited edition watch and will only be available across the 50 Breitling stores across the globe with only 100 pieces being made.

As you can see in the above image, the watch comes with a blue rubber strap pictured having a 24mm lug width which balances the huge 46mm diameter. The watch will retail for a price of $9150.

 

The post Meet the New and Elegant Breitling Chronoliner B04 Boutique Edition appeared first on WatchReport.com.

Havaan Tuvali Squadron One | Watch Review

Havaan Tuvali Squadron One

I can’t recall how many times I’ve mentioned in the past how much fun it is reviewing watch from brand new watch companies. I truly admire when new companies try to make an impact in a market that quite frankly can be quite ho-hum in terms of uniqueness. I’m always pleased, regardless of the release venue, when a watch company provides a fresh design or places a great spin on something previously seen. The Squadron One from Havaan Tuvali grabbed my attention and is quite pleasing with a few twists here and there providing a fresh look for an aviation inspired timepiece. The design and specifications are not overly ground-breaking, however, the combination of the great specs and reasonable price should really draw a ton of attention from those that love cushion case style watches with an aviation theme. The watch model comes in several different dial variations so if the version which is featured during this review doesn’t immediately grab your attention check out the others at their website in the link below.

Havaan Tuvali Squadron One Specifications:

• Movement –  Swiss Made Automatic
• Case – Surgical grade 316L stainless steel case
• Case Diameter – 43mm
• Lug to lug -52mm
• Crystal – Sapphire
• Bracelet/Strap – 22mm surgical grade 316L stainless steel strap / Genuine calf leather
• Water resistance – 450 Meters / 1500 Feet
• Price $399 USD

http://www.havaantuvali.com/

When I think of aviation style watches the first aspect that comes to mind is that better be very legible. Does the Squadron One meet my expectations in that regard? Do I feel like it is the perfect aviation watch? Those are the questions I will focus on as I go over the areas that could be improved upon for this watch model. I continue to believe discussing the areas which could be improved upon a watch as the easiest place to start for a review. The dial is very legible. Large numerals and excellent luminous properties will please the wearer. Where the legibility issues arise surround the slide rule bezel which is used to complete a wide variety of aviation necessary calculations. The outer ring has a black aluminum insert similar to what is found on many watches. The problem is with the inner high polished stainless portion of the bezel. I have found it extremely difficult to read the small numbers unless the watch is held at an angle. As long as you can devote time during making calculations it will not be easy on the fly. If the wearer can get past this legibility issue then there is very little to complain about on the Squadron One. I’m not going to be performing any calculations any time soon, so I can let it slide.

I can’t let the watch get away that easily as there is one other aspect that irks me just ever so slightly, the bracelet. Personally, I only use leather straps on my pilot style watches, however, if I would opt for a bracelet I have to have solid end links. The Squadron One does have end links at all. I am just not a fan of the look. The quality of the bracelet though is very good. The leather straps provided are nice as well.. The stitch work and material are both excellent quality and I highly recommend wearing the Squadron One using the leather strap.

Is there a purpose for a display case back? Of course a highly decorated movement, such as a top grade ETA or some sort of custom automatic, showing off the complexity and beauty of the movement can be fun. The vast majority of the time, only the wearer is going to see the case back. The Havaan Tuvali Squadron One houses a fantastic Swiss Made Sellita SW-290-1 automatic movement but outside of engraving on the rotor the movement is similar to a base grade ETA in appearance which is quite plain. How about a nicely stamped case back? A really cool aviation themed case back would have been outstanding. Just pet peeve of mine but doesn’t make me like the Squadron One any less.

What’s to like about the Squadron One? Quite a bit. Price point of the Havaan Tuvali Squadron One jumps off the page immediately instantly making the watch a superior value in my book. So what do you get for $399 USD that makes the watch such a superior value? A combination of the specifications and components not often found in this price range. In my opinion it starts with the very nice Swiss Made Sellita SW-290-1 automatic movement. It’s not fancy but nonetheless any time a watch is offered with a Swiss Made automatic movement for under $500 any watch enthusiast will probably take notice. I’m a extremely impressed that a new watch brand chose Swiss Made over the very capable NH and Miyota movements such as the Miyota 9015. I am a huge huge fan of the Miyota 9015 but as a personal preference I will opt for the Swiss Made whenever possible as long as the price is right. As with any Sellita movement I have owned over the years, the 290-1 has been highly accurate as I have not been able to notice any significant deviation at all.

I am an absolute sucker for cushion case watches. I prefer divers with the cushion but a cushion case pilot would be choice 1b for me over anything round. The case is also perfectly sized at 43mm in diameter, 14mm in thickness and around 52mm from lug tip to lug tip. The sizing is going to be perfect for just about any wrist. Sitting atop the case, regardless of the variation, is a large 30+mm sapphire crystal that is a very adequate 3mm in overall thickness. The anti-reflective coating is top notch as the dial is always quite legible regardless of angle.

All models of the Havaan Tuvali Squadron Onehave C3 superluminova on the markers and hands which is great feature that will glow for hours with an adequate charge so no worries about having this watch in darkened conditions and not being able to tell the time. I love the modification of the small second hand designed like a gauge on a flight instrument panel. Extremely cool little touch. I also can’t forget to mention the cool crown placement. Most watch crowns are found at the 3 or somewhere around the 4 or 5. The Squadron One 7mm crown is positioned at the 2 and is recessed ever so slightly into the case. It may not be the easiest crown to get a hold of but with it being recessed though knocking it on something will be less likely.  

If you are looking for a pilot style watch with some good specifications at a what I consider a good value then the Havaan Tuvali Squadron One could be one for your short list.  Without a doubt the watch is not revolutionary but it takes the classic cushion case we see used so much with dive watches and transforms it into a pilot watch. It is different while familiar. The watch also provides a highly legible dial, sapphire crystal, quality bracelet (minus end links), outstanding leather strap and a top notch Swiss Made Sellita SW-290-1 automatic movement.  I am pleased with the overall value that Havaan Tuvali Squadron provides. I look forward to seeing what they come up with next.

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Geckota K1 Pilot | Watch Review