Thursday, 7 July 2016

Aegir CD-1 | Watch Review

Aegir CD-1

Photo Jun 30, 3 52 28 PM

 Aegir CD-1 Specifications:

  • Case: German made 316L Stainless Steel. Brushed finish
    7mm screw down, signed crown.
  • Movement: Soprod A10, Swiss made automatic, 25 Jewels.
  • Dial: Applique hour makers, filled with Superluminova BGW-9C1
  • Dimensions:
  • 42mm diameter, (Not including the Crown)
    51.1mm lug to lug length,
    24mm between the lugs (24mm strap width)
    13mm in height.
  • Crystal: Sapphire, domed, anti scratch with anti reflective coating inside.
  • Bezel: Stainless Steel, fixed , Kolsterised to 1000 to 1200 HV0.05
  • Water Resistance: Rated for 701 meters

Price $1400 USD 

http://aegirinstruments.com/

***Video review will be uploaded in a few days***

I’ve been waiting to do a hands on review of the Aegir CD-1 since it debuted in late 2014/2015. Some of you reading might be wondering why I am making such a big deal out of this, and hopefully once you have read all of my review and watch the video, you will understand. It is hard for me to not be enamored with this “dress diver” (more on that later), but I will still be reviewing it objectively as always. The fact is, it’s a watch I knew I loved before it even landed.

Photo Jun 30, 3 11 08 PM

First things first, let me talk about Todd Caldwell, owner of Aegir Watches and what sets him apart, and his inspiration for the CD-1. (Concept Diver 1). Unlike many brand owners who design and sell dive watches, Todd is a commercial diver working in the offshore oil and gas industry. The Aegir CD-1 was his first design, which he started to envision in 2007. It was never meant to be a company, but just a project for him and his friends.

Things changed and a few years later, the CD-2 was released, a more traditional dive watch with an elapsed timing bezel. It wasn’t until 2014 that the CD-1 was finally realized. It’s been quite a struggle at times and not an easy road for Todd. Between factory issues, movement company hold ups and currency rates, and the fact Todd is more or less a perfectionist when it comes to many things, there were setbacks to say the least. Todd never quit and his watches quality show that. Many independent or microbrand companies these days have their watches produced in Asia either wholly or at least partially, and assembled elsewhere. Aegir watches are produced in Germany and Switzerland, and these days assembled by him in Australia, where he resides.

Aegir CD-1

In recent weeks of posting the Aegir CD-1 on social media, I’ve seen some comments such as, “how is it a dive watch without a timing bezel?” The simple answer is it is a different kind of dive watch. It was designed as a commercial divers watch, for a diver who does not need to know his bottom time, as bell runs are typically in the 4-8 hour range. Fortunately it also translates into one good looking watch that can easily be an all occasion watch, especially with a strap change.

Aegir CD-1

The CD-1 is available in 3 dial colors, white, black and a brushed grey and 2 case finishes, brushed stainless steel and a black DLC. Cases are machined in Germany by Fricker, and an improvement in my opinion over the his sold out and discontinued CD-2 is drilled lug holes, with hex screws and yes, screwdrivers are included. Another thing that is included is a timing report. Todd times every watch after assembly and includes a printed copy. Accuracy on this example averaged out to about 3.3 seconds per day, and I have determined that is was gaining that time. The movement used in the Aegir CD-1 is the Soprod A1o, a relatively newer movement that has been used by quite a few companies, including the OWC Dive Watch I reviewed last year, among a good many others. Soprod was once the processing company for ETA, and the A10 is designed to be a replacement for the ETA 2892. I have had this movement in a few watches and it is as smooth and reliable as any ETA.

Photo Jun 30, 6 43 02 PM

So lets discuss the “dress diver” aspect I mentioned earlier. Obviously with a rating of 701 meters, the CD-1 is more than capable to go into the water, I mean it is designed by a commercial diver! With the lack of a timing bezel, it gives the watch more subdued or understated look about it, and if you change out the included Isofrane strap, you can make it look more like a casual watch like you see in this pic below, as it is on a distressed canvas strap. (In the video I will show it on a Drunkart Straps weathered black canvas). If you were to put it on a nice leather or alligator strap, you are ready for a night on the town. Many times, myself included, we label things an all occasion watch. And while some definitely are, the Aegir CD-1 really hits the mark in that category. I think the brushed grey dial is even more suited for an all occasion watch, more so than the black or white dial, though your opinion may differ.

Aegir CD-1

As I have eluded to, the brushed grey dial is one of the standouts of this watch. Yes, other dial colors are available, and they are beautiful, but how often do you see a vertical brushed dial such as this? I have tried to capture the Aegir CD-1 in as much different lighting as possible, to show you how this dial looks both inside and outside. When the light hits it right, it is something you will find yourself staring at for quite awhile. It really is gorgeous.

Aegir CD-1

If any of you reading have had a watch with a stainless bezel such as the one found on the CD-1, you know it is almost the first thing that will get scratched. And once it starts accumulating a few scratches, it just does not look as good as it once did. Todd solved this issue by having the bezels kolsterised. Basically, the entire bezel has been hardened, in a similar way to Sinn’s tegimented process. While it does not make it scratch proof, as nothing is, between the hardened steel bezel and the domed sapphire crystal, you can go about your day and activities without having to worry or baby your CD-1.

Photo Jun 30, 6 48 52 PM

If you like icy blue lume, then you are going to love the Aegir CD-1. Applied hour markers and hands are generously filled with  BGW-9C1 superluminova. The photo below is in complete darkness to show how bright the lume really is. Other photos which show the lume in more of a semi-dark lighting can be seen in the photo gallery.

Aegir CD-1

On my 7 1/2 inch wrist, the Aegir CD- is nothing short of fantastic. Now, let me clarify. I am not someone who loves to wear a 45mm + watch these days, at least not on a regular basis. So for me, the 42mm size is perfect. And while 42mm might sound small to some, the use of 24mm lugs, something rarely seen on a watch of this size, will make it feel bigger. The one point of contention, if I can call it that, would be the use of double sided screws for the lugs. While tools are included to remove them and it is easy, I am always afraid of over tightening with the screw drivers and causing it to strip. I have changed out the included Isofrane strap, (one of the best rubber straps on the market that sells for $120 by itself), a good couple of times already and no issue. One sided screw bars would be great on his next model.

Aegir CD-1

Now, lets get to that price, and sum up this review. You may be thinking, “$1400 for a watch I have never heard of ?” Yes, its true, Aegir Watches have not been the best at marketing their product, and at this point have more of a cult following; a core group that loves and buys his watches. And part of the reason for that, is Aegir is really just one guy, Todd. I of course am hoping to spread the word a little more, with this hands on review. So, back to $1400. Well, as I mentioned in the beginning, the CD-1 case is machined in Germany, and the rest of the components are made in Switzerland, with assembly by Todd himself in Australia. If you know watches and prices, you know that a watch built in those countries with these specifications will not be had for less than $1000. It just cant be done, unless as a company you don’t want to make any money. These days there are other brands, completely assembled in Asia, with Miyota movements, that are selling for $800 and up. When you think about that, I think this makes the price of the CD-1 almost a bargain. But, as you know, that is one mans opinion, even though owners of this watch will easily agree with me. I am never here to sell you a watch, but if you are on the fence,  just do it and order one. I guarantee you will not be disappointed with the quality, look or feel of the Aegir CD-1.

I hope you have enjoyed this review. Please take a look at the photo gallery, and leave your questions in the field below.

Photo Jun 30, 6 48 48 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 48 52 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 41 54 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 40 15 PM Photo Jun 30, 3 52 28 PM Photo Jul 01, 12 37 10 PM Photo Jul 01, 12 39 31 PM Photo Jun 30, 3 10 51 PM Photo Jun 30, 3 11 08 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 42 33 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 42 52 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 43 02 PM Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Aegir CD-1 Photo Jun 30, 6 53 50 PM Photo Jun 30, 6 53 41 PM Aegir CD-1

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Gruppo Gamma Divemaster Prototype | Video Review

Gruppo Gamma Divemaster Prototype

Gruppo Gamma Divemaster Prototype

Here is a video review on the Gruppo Gamma Divemaster Prototype, which is available for preorder as of the date of this publishing. Expect a full review come mid fall when the Divemaster is released.

The post Gruppo Gamma Divemaster Prototype | Video Review appeared first on WatchReport.com | Real. Honest. Reviews. | Authentic Watch Reviews |.

Raven Defender | Video Review

Raven Defender DLC | Video Review

 

A video look at the Raven Defender DLC, a pilot/divers style watch to a vintage appeal.

Enjoy. 

The Raven Defender DLC can be purchased from the Raven Watches website.

Defender

 

The post Raven Defender | Video Review appeared first on WatchReport.com | Real. Honest. Reviews. | Authentic Watch Reviews |.

Friday, 1 July 2016

Raven Defender | Watch Review

Raven Defender

Raven Defender

Raven Defender Specifications:

  • 42mm stainless steel case with DLC coating
  • 49mm lug to lug
  • 11.5mm thick
  • 20mm lug width
  • 90 grams in weight
  • Miyota 9015 automatic movement
  • Sapphire Crystal
  • 200 meters water resistant
  • Rubber and leather Straps

Price $599 USD 

http://www.ravenwatches.com/

Raven Defender

For those that may not be familiar with Raven Watches, they are the sister brand of Stevral Watch Company (Formerly Benarus Watches). Both companies are operated and managed by Steve Laughlin and Ralf Schreiner.  While they run both companies and for the most part pricing is similar between brands, there is a distinction between the styles they produce. Raven concentrates more on vintage style watches that are mostly homages, while Stevral produces dive watches that are for the most part their own design.

That brings us to their latest model, the Raven Defender. While I will not outright call this watch an homage, it is inspired by watches of the past with the dual crowns, reminiscent of compressor cases of the past.

Raven Defender

One of the great things about Raven is their use of mostly smaller sized cases, such as 42mm, which is what the Defender comes in at. Now, I’m fully aware not everyone shares my perspective on watch sizes, but these days a 42mm case is right on the money for me. My sweet spot if you will. If you are a member of any forums or watch groups, you will see that this is well received on many of them was well, as quite a few enthusiasts have scaled down in the size watch they wear, or just do not have the wrists to pull off a 45mm+ watch. The Raven Defender is not only 42mm in width, but also just 49mm in length, meaning it will fit an array of wrist sizes, down to a 6 1/2 inch wrist with ease. Because of the large dual crowns, it will wear slightly larger, but it feels right at home on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Raven Defender

So lets get into the goodies of the Raven Defender. Firstly, it will only be available in a black dial, and 3 case finishes; DLC as pictured, brushed steel and bead blasted steel. It is also available in brass. If you followed this watch, you will know that it was available last year for preorder via a Kickstarter Campaign. Two other dial colors were available through KS, a blue dial and a grey dial. Those were KS exclusives, and are not available for sale through the Raven Website. Now, before I continue, let me just comment in a sentence or two about a brand that has been around since 2008, using the Kickstarter platform. Now, I will not put words in Steve or Ralf’s mouth, but the simple answer to that is, Why Not? Yes, they are more established than most companies that do crowdfunding, and also very popular. But KS allowed them to reach an audience outside of the watch forum/Facebook group sector, and it seems to have worked. I do not know if they will continue to use the platform moving forward or not, but seems hard to fault them for going that route.

Raven Defender

As I am sure you are aware, the second crown operates the internal dive bezel. This is a non screw down crown, and rotates smoothly around the dial. The main crown of course screws down to retain the 200 meters of water resistance, and the entire case, crowns and case back are blasted then DLC coated. Something you do not immediately notice unless it hits the right light, would be the slightly pebble texture dial, and when you see it, it just gives the Defender that extra pop.  Another thing you may notice is a difference in number and marker color. They are actually a pale yellow, like a light vintage tan hue. In certain lighting they come off as white, but the only white is on the internal dive bezel itself.

Raven Defender

The Defender is a cross between a diver and a pilot watch. Raven describes it as a “Multi-purpose expedition timepiece that combines classic aviation design with scuba diving specs”. Personally, it is more a dive watch than anything, with an internal dive bezel, which we have seen before. Don’t get me wrong, I am not knocking it at all, I just do not see the aviation aspect of it. One aspect I did notice though is the watch is somewhat minimalist. As you can see, it lacks a date aperture, and when turning around to the case back you will see that it has no engraving, something you see on almost any watch, even ones with an exhibition case back. While I am not sure why they decided to leave it blank (the model name is also absent from both case back and dial), I kind of like the sleek, clean look it provides.

Raven Defender

The Raven Defender comes with both a genuine rubber strap and a dark cherry/brown leather strap. I am not sure if this color leather strap is included with all variations, but it would make sense as it should look good with all of them, at least the black dial versions. Both the leather and rubber straps are on the short side, I am on the 4th hole up on both of them, meaning it most likely will not fit an 8 inch wrist.  The reality is, it is hard to make one size straps that will fit everyone, sometimes the small wrist folks are shafted and other times its the large wrist-ed gentleman. They both come with the same DLC coated buckle, that slightly sticks out a bit when wearing on the wrist, as opposed to flat or curving towards you. Both are of good quality, though the rubber strap does attract more lint and dirt than I expected, similar to silicone, but I can tell it is definitely a genuine rubber. The leather strap is slightly stiff, but should only get better the more you wear it, and will also patina and change color over time, giving it a distressed look.

Raven Defender

Lume is as expected from Raven/Stevral. They do not mess around when it comes to luminescence. The picture below was taken under my light box with my studio lights off, during the day, so not complete darkness. For a full darkness shot, see the picture gallery below.

Raven Defender

To finish up this review, lets discuss the movement and the crystal. As usual with a watch of this price point you have an AR coated sapphire and the movement is the widely popular Miyota 9015 automatic. When I list all the specifications, the design itself, comfort and brand, I think Raven has another winner. Why did I say brand? Because another great attribute of Raven Watch Company is their dedication to the customer. Steve and Ralf will handle most issues you have within a few days, and if you are in the US, it is nice to know you are dealing with a company based their as well. Manufacturing is done in Asia, but Steve handles shipping and customer service stateside and is only an email or phone call away.

The Raven Defender is definitely priced well within its competition, and offers something a little different than your standard micro brand dive watch. It is also a look that I feel will be just as welcome now as it will be in 10-20 years. Maybe it is not timeless, but I do not see it being dated anytime soon.

Please leave your comments in the field below the photo gallery.

Thank you for reading.

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