Wednesday, 16 November 2016

Panzera Aquamarine | Watch Review

Panzera Aquamarine

Panzera Aquamarine

Are you ready for a glimpse of another new micro-brand watch model? I know it seems these days the market is just flat out flooded with tons of different watch brands along with many different styles. However, it is always refreshing when a watch company steps away from their comfort zone like Panzera has done with the Aquamarine 45. All the past watch models from Panzera could be considered either pilot style or dress. The Aquamarine is the first attempt by Panzera to jump into the sport/dive watch venue and thank goodness, they did not just throw out some stale looking timepiece. My colleagues have previously reviewed models from Panzera and typical had positive comments about build quality and design. I am pleased to get my first up close look at the Panzera Aquamarine 45. The Aquamarine ranges in price from $555 for the all stainless steel finished model to $645 for the Rose IP plated model. The model that is the subject of this review is the black IP, which retails for $575. You can read more about Panzera and the Aquamarine 45 at http://panzera-style.com/aquamarine45/.

Panzera Aquamarine

Panzera Aquamarine Specifications:

  • Model: A45-02R
  • Case: 316L Surgical Grade Stainless Steel/IP Black Matte Finish
  • Case Size: 45mm
  • Case Length: 55mm
  • Case Thickness: 15mm
  • Lug Width: 24mm
  • Movement: Mechanical Automatic
  • Water Resistance: 200 meters
  • Strap: Rubber/Leather

Price: $575 USD

Panzera Aquamarine

First off, I know many of you see the name of the model, Aquamarine 45, and assume dive watch, right? Well, it is, but it isn’t. I mean, another brand, Panerai of course, is known for watches without timing bezels that were used for dives, just like a few other brands do, and a bezel does not really define a dive watch I guess. In certain diving aspects, a timing bezel is just not needed. If a timing bezel is important to you for a dive watch, I would look elsewhere. But if you do not dive, or time anything with a bezel, this is a nice dive/sport style watch in my opinion.

Panzera Aquamarine

Let us move on to looking at the case details aside from the size. The available case finishes and strap options will allow the wearer to dress the watch up significantly or keep things extremely casual. At 15mm thick it may still be able to fit under a dress shirt cuff. The brushed/matte finishing on the black IP version is flawless at least to the naked eye. While the case design of the Aquamarine 45 is not what I or anyone else may considered unique, I have to admit the cushion case style may be one of the more popular designs on the market. Personally, the cushion case design is my favorite. I find this style of case provides a level of balance on the wrist and on top of that, it just looks great. I believe the fact that the lug width is 24mm has a lot to do with aiding in the balance, as I have always felt wider straps just feel better on the wrist as well.

Panzera Aquamarine

I love the over-sized 10+mm double crown design and that fact that it screws down which I have always preferred to push/pull crowns. Even though the crown is large, it does not dig into the wrist, which is an absolute no-no. The crown has a nice clean logo on the face sticking with the nautical theme of the watch. Unless some sort of extreme gasket system is utilized, the crown had better be screw down or I would be highly skeptical about high levels of water resistance. So, what is the case missing? Not a whole lot actually. If I had to pick one aspect to improve upon with the case, it would have to be the lugs and the need for drilled lug holes making strap changes much simpler. If you like cushion cases, I think you would be hard pressed to dislike this one.

Panzera Aquamarine

How many times have you guys heard me mention that I do not care for domed sapphire crystals? Well, not a worry on the Aquamarine 45 as the crystal is flat, thank goodness. The crystal is large as well at 37mm providing an easy view of the midnight black dial. Now, I have to admit, I am not a fan of the anti-reflective (AR) coating used by Panzera as they chose to coat internal and external. I know having both provide great clarity for the dial but there is a drawback. AR coatings tend to scratch easily and over time that could be a problem especially if the watch is worn more during sporting activities over dress watch venues. I love the midnight black dial on the Aquamarine. The choice for a mix of markers and numbers looks great and resembles some of the Panerai style dial setups. I also really like the skeleton hour and minute hands.

Panzera Aquamarine

The one aspect about the dial that I have to admit I am not a fan of is the open numeric date window. I like the day/date option; however, I wish they would have just kept it simpler, at least it is legible. At this point, everyone is probably wondering does the watch have any lume? It does but it is not fantastic. The Panzera Aquamarine lume glows well enough for a short period of time, and should not be a problem telling the time in a darkened room for a few hours.

Panzera Aquamarine

Powering the  Panzera Aquamarine is Miyota automatic movement. It is a 21 jewel Miyota so my assumption is that the movement is some variation of the 8215 allowing for a day/date complication. Like many of you, I am not a huge fan of the 8200 series Miyota movements. These movements are robust but tend to be inaccurate. In addition, I do not care for the erratic movement of the second hand around the dial. It just bothers me, as I prefer the smooth sweep provided by movements such as the 9015 and ETA movements. Like many, I am still trying to adjust to the idea that more and more we are going to see the 8215 or similar in many new watch models in order to keep pricing down. While I prefer the Miyota 9015, many times we are now seeing prices at $700 or more using that movement. I would almost rather companies opt for the Seiko NH35 instead of the Miyota 8215. The NH35 would help keep the overall cost down for consumers while providing a bit more of an aesthetically pleasing sweep by the second hand. I think Panzera would have been better served by at least going the Seiko route in this case.

Panzera Aquamarine

The last features I will cover briefly are the strap options. Sorry no bracelets guys. I am fortunate to get a glimpse of the both the rubber and leather straps used with the Aquamarine 45. Up front, I have to point out if you have a large wrist there may be some issues. On my 7 ¾-inch wrist, I only have two holes to size upward on both straps. Please keep the sizing in mind, as you may need to grab another strap. As far as quality is concerned, both straps are top notch in my book. The 24mm width of the straps as I mentioned previously aid with the balance feel of the watch on the wrist in my personal opinion. If I could suggest one more thing to Panzera, provide the same heavy-duty buckle found on the leather strap on the rubber strap.

Panzera Aquamarine

I would like to applaud Panzera for stepping outside of their comfort zone and producing such a very nice looking sport/dive watch at an affordable price. The Panzera Aquamarine 45 has a good amount of quality specifications ranging from the case design and make-up, case plating options, sapphire crystal and aesthetically pleasing dial/hands. The downside is the Miyota 8200 series movement. If Panzera keeps producing watches of solid quality like this one, but with a higher grade movement, they will continue to grow as a company. I hope they will look into using Seiko and higher grade Miyota automatics for future productions. If the movement does not dissuade you, I would say it is worth checking out.

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Monday, 14 November 2016

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II | Watch Review

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

SJOO Sandstrom, a brand you may not be familiar with, and might not be able to correctly pronounce (see how I completely butchered the pronunciation in the video). Pronunciation aside, SJOO Sandstrom has quite the array of models, and though I have only seen one in hand to date, I will say I am excited to see more if the opportunity presents itself. Their models are not exactly cheap, seeing as how the UTC Extreme II is priced around $3,400, which definitely puts it into the luxury category for me, as it would most of the general public. The silver dial is not my absolute favorite that they offer, but below are some variations that are a little more pleasing to me. Color aside, lets explore this luxury chronograph from the Swedish Brand.

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme IISJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

SJOO SANDSTROM UTC EXTREME SPECIFICATIONS

  • UTC EXTREME ART NO 015285
  • CASE Stainless steel, 44.2 mm.
  • Lug to Lug: 52mm
  • Thickness: 16mm
  • Lug Width: 22mm
  • CASE-BACK See through engraved case back with flat sapphire      crystal. Individually numbered.
  • GLASS Scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
  • DIAL AND HANDS Dial with white super luminova index marks and hands with super luminova.
  • DIAL Silver.
  • BEZEL Stainless steel in sun brushed finish with six matte black screws.
  • BRACELET Rubber.
  • WATER RESISTANCE 10 ATM (100m).
  • Self winding SS G4 (Swiss made) Hour, minutes, small second. 24 hour hand with second time mechanism. Stop second device. 28.800 vibrations per hour; 4 Hz. Chronograph 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours counters. Date window. 25 Jewels.

Price $3400 USD

http://sjoosandstrom.se/collection/utc-extreme/#015285SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

Let me get the bad out of the way, which really has nothing to do about the watch itself, but more about where it stands in the market. At $3400, it has some major competition from not only Swiss brands, but German and of course some well known British Brands as well. As watch enthusiasts we are well aware of perception, and lets face it, Swiss and German made usually get the most recognition of being the best. So, what is exactly wrong with SJOO Sandstrom? Simply, they just need to get out in the market more, as many will be weary to drop this kind of cash on an (at least to many) unknown brand. Do not get me wrong, I am in no way saying that the UTC Extreme is not worth its price. I would say it absolutely is, but with the way the market works, it is a hefty price tag for a brand without immediate name recognition.

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

There is no doubt that the SJOO Sandstrom is an exceptionally finished watch. The company has executed multiple finishes from brushed, to polished to PVD treatment on the bezel screws and crowns, which matches the hands on the dial, showing cohesiveness in the design. I have personally never been a fan of screws in the bezel, whether it is an Audemars Piguet or a slew of other brands that have done it. Nothing wrong with them per say, I just hate how most are never aligned with one another. My personal feeling on aesthetics aside, when it comes to case finishing, I have no complaints, even at this price point.

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

I mentioned earlier that the silver dial was not my favorite, and not because there is anything wrong with the dial, it just is a little monochromatic for me, and compared to the other variations of the Extreme UTC, this would just not be my first choice. If you do like the silver, but want a little splash of color, check out the model pictured below, from the SJOO Sandstrom website. As far as dials go, especially chronographs with a GMT hand, they have got it right for sure. It is not cluttered or overdone with text and even with the silver/black/white color combo, the hands are easily distinguishable, the way they should be. My only real knock would be the date placement, which is somewhat out in no mans land. Had the date been centered between the 3 and 4 markers and not pushing towards the center of the dial, it would be much more pleasing.

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

Of course, beyond finishing and wanting to put itself into that luxury market, what else makes up the price of the SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme? The Valjoux 7754 automatic chronograph movement. I mean the SS G4 movement. Wait. Huh? Let me cut through some of the BS that brands like to do. And, yes, I am stating that bluntly, and here’s why; The SJOO Sandstrom website does not state what the actual movement is, or based on, nor what they do to call it their own caliber. Glycine and a few other brands have done the same. Best I can tell, you have an engraved rotor and possibly some more decoration to the movement. In the grand scheme of things, is this a huge issue? No. But, the customer should know what they are buying and at the very least, should state it is a modified 7754. Regardless, while I know that sounds harsh, it is really not meant to come off that way, and the movement shown through the open case back sure is beautiful.

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

On this wrist, it wears just like it specifications suggest, although does not really feel 16mm thick, which is always a good thing. These days, I’m just not into wearing super chunky watches on my wrist, at least not on a regular bracelet. The rubber strap is fitted to the case, and is extremely comfortable. The only thing I wish is that it had a nice custom deployant clasp, as opposed to the standard buckle system.

Wrist shot on 7 1/2 inch wrist

SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme II

Is the SJOO Sandstrom UTC Extreme a well made watch? I think so, and in terms of price, I absolutely think it is worth it, as long as you are not bothered by brand recognition. And lets be honest, while it might be nice to have some people know the watch that is on your wrist, it is also nice to have something a little more exclusive, not just the same old thing. I think the rubber strap could use a clasp upgrade, or maybe just opt for the bracelet as I think it really does change the look of the watch, at least it does in the pictures I have seen. Kicks it up a notch if you will (Emeril fans will appreciate that. No? Well, the bracelet makes me go BAM! Better?). All silliness aside, if you are looking for a new brand to check out that is not just some off the shelf microbrand and has a well regarded movement and all the good stuff, you might want to check this model, or others out, from SJOO Sandstrom.

Thank you for reading.

P.S. Did you watch the video? If not, scroll up and listen to my fantastic voice guide you through an HD look at this watch.

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